There is a charming and often underestimated category of wines from very young vintages in the world of wine. While many wine enthusiasts lean towards older bottles, believing that ageing adds complexity and refinement, there's a distinct joy in exploring the vibrant and exuberant flavours found in wines still in their early stages.
These young wines provide a unique opportunity to savour the pure essence of the grape's potential without the influence of ageing in oak barrels or bottles. They capture the essence of a specific year, reflecting the climate and the land where the grapes were grown with remarkable clarity. The result is a kaleidoscope of fresh, lively flavours and aromas, often bursting with fruitiness, as we found in the 2021 vintages from Wynns Coonawarra Estate.
Wynns, a respected winery in South Australia known for its medium-bodied red wines, has introduced five elegant, medium-bodied Coonawarra red wines from the 2021 vintage that are ready to be enjoyed now or aged for later.
These wines will gradually become available worldwide, with two options in Singapore early next year: Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 and Black Label Old Vines Shiraz 2021. You can find them at retailers like Cold Storage, Redmart, and Amazon, and speciality wine shops like Bottles & Bottles and The Cellar. Other offerings from this vintage include the Glengyle Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, the V&A Lane Shiraz 2021, and the V&A Lane Cabernet Shiraz 2021.
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Rich flavours
We enjoyed sampling these new releases at a delightful wine-pairing dinner hosted by the Italian-Australian restaurant Cenzo. As a fan of Shiraz, I was particularly drawn to the Black Label Old Vines Shiraz 2021, which comes from 100-year-old vines. It paired wonderfully with the rich flavours of my lamb ragu pasta, boasting notes of red fruits and hints of black pepper and finishing smoothly and dry. It is a great match for robust dishes like char siew or tteok-bokki.
The V&A Lane Cabernet Shiraz 2021, a blend of the estate's two signature grape varieties with a lower alcohol content of 12.8%, revealed a smoother profile after a good swirl, ending with a clean and gentle finish.
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For Cabernet Sauvignon enthusiasts, the Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, considered one of Australia's most collectable wines and a favourite at auctions, offers bright notes of raspberry, plum, and a touch of oak in a medium-bodied dry red wine. It finishes cleanly and elegantly, making it a versatile pairing choice for dishes ranging from medium-rare Black Angus steak to salmon sashimi.
The Glengyle Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, with its layers of red berries and floral flavours, is another medium-bodied dry wine that delivers a smooth and long finish. It complements various dishes, from tiger prawns to stir-fried beef and kebabs.
While Wynns is primarily known for its red wines, they also offer some light and refreshing whites in their Wynns Reframed series, including the Fiano, Pinot Grigio & Arneis 2021, and the Coonawarra Cabernet Rosé 2021, perfect for a pre-dinner aperitif.
If you are curious about the pinnacle of Wynns Coonawarra wines, look no further than the John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon (though it's not part of the 2021 collection). Named after the Scottish entrepreneur who transformed Coonawarra into a thriving wine region in the 1890s, the John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 matures for 16 months in French oak barrels.
The result is a wine with a chalky, high-mineral mouthfeel and luscious berry flavour, best enjoyed with seafood. This wine earned the "Exceptional" classification by Langton's Classification, the premier guide to Australian fine wines, and made history as the first Australian wine to be released via the exclusive La Place de Bordeaux Marketplace in 2020.
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Senior winemaker Sue Hodder, part of Wynns Coonawarra Estate since 1993, says the exceptional 2021 weather conditions greatly benefited wine production. This was not always the case for other harvests, like 2022, a particularly wet year impacted by La Niña. She adds: "Last year, we couldn't harvest as many grapes due to unfavourable conditions, so we had to leave most of them on the vine. But we'll revisit them later and hope they suit our reserve line."
One of the significant challenges all vineyards face, including Wynns Coonawarra Estate, is the impact of climate change. By adopting more sustainable vineyard practices, such as improved soil moisture management and a greater emphasis on vine health, Wynns proudly holds the title of a 100% sustainable vineyard, certified by Sustainable Winegrowing Australia. Hodder says: "Sustainability is at the core of everything we do. It encompasses the evolving environment, the footprint we leave, the wines we create, and our brand."
Hodder's winemaking philosophy remains rooted in a deep respect for the terroir and the ancient terra rossa soil. She adds: "At Wynns, we aim to craft wines that authentically express the best of our vineyards. We can create bright, expressive, age-worthy wines with healthy vines and fruit. Our winemaking is guided by our heritage, where we continue to taste both old and new bottles, incorporating the ever-evolving knowledge into our craft."
With a storied history dating back to the 1890s, this vineyard is home to some of the world's oldest Cabernet and Shiraz vines, firmly rooted in the earth for generations. This fertile land, formed over millions of years, features rich, red soil and clay loam layered over limestone. Where others saw barren land, Riddoch saw abundant opportunity in the region’s Mediterranean climate and rich Terra Rossa soil that he considered ideal for vineyards and fruit orchards.
In 1951, wine merchant David Wynn purchased John Riddoch's original winery and vineyards, renaming them Wynns Coonawarra Estate. While others considered using the land for sheep farming, Wynn envisioned winemaking excellence.
He planted new vines, enlisted skilled winemakers, and collaborated with artist friends to create innovative labels and advertising, setting a new standard for Coonawarra winemaking that resonates today with Wynns' motto: "Those who know, know."
After savouring the diverse red wines of Wynns Coonawarra, I, too, now know why this ruby-rich liquid is lauded by oenophiles and highly sought after by collectors worldwide.
