The chefs come out swinging, with a series of hard-hitting dishes that sometimes teeter on the brink of completely shocking the palate. But that aggressive approach works, showcasing the quartet’s confidence and mastery to full effect as they counter each of their creations with garnishes that balance the intense pan-Chinese flavours.
We begin with a duo of dishes by the Leongs. First up, a thick, fragrant Cantonese-style pumpkin broth, topped with abalone, sea cucumber and eel maw by Sam. A spoonful of uni and jamón ibérico on the side sounds like a recipe for an instant umami overload from the get-go, but a dropperful of red vinegar hits the spot, cutting the richness just enough for a slurp-worthy starting course.
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The second course, by Forest, is a king crab curry served with white asparagus. We’re not certain about the way it’s served: the addition of a beaten egg to the warm-toned gravy makes the dish look like a new parent’s hourly routine, but we remind ourselves that the proof of the (curry) is in the eating, and dig in. Despite its plain presentation, the curry is intensely flavourful — unsurprisingly not so much with curry spice, but with seafood savouriness.
Following this is a Cantonese classic: slow-braised abalone, this time courtesy of Chan. The jus, fortified with old hen, pork, chicken feet, Jinhua ham and lard, is another bold entry into the menu. A halved okra on the plate scares us slightly at first, as we conjure up the nightmare textures of slime on an already syrupy sauce, but the lightly fried texture works. The use of a thin, young pod also goes a long way, with nary a hint of fibrousness.
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We meander off the savoury road and onto a spicy avenue, with soft-shell crab and turbot, both deep-fried “typhoon shelter” style by Goh. Unlike the okra in the previous dish, the cooking here gets the proteins coated in a shatteringly crisp outer layer. Light chilli heat keeps our taste buds active and darting, so even the aggressive fry doesn’t get cloying.
Then comes Chan’s second offering on the menu: a slow-roasted wagyu cheek, paired with a half-moon of daikon. The beef is tender, so much so that our knives slice through with just the barest flick of a wrist. Thick, zingy sauce over the meat is perfumed with pepper, star anise and cinnamon.
Things wind down as we approach the menu’s closing savoury dish by Sam: congee with shrimp balls and dried scallops. On the side is a deep-fried salmon skin coated in salted egg yolk, replacing what might have been youtiao in a more homely dish.
By this point, it feels like the chefs are reeling us back into reality after sending us on a rollercoaster ride, with decidedly tame flavours to taper off the meal. Ending things off is a “playground” dessert inspired by Thai flavours. Forest’s sweet creation is a colourful mix of gelato, crepes and meringue, though it’s more of a visual spectacle than flavour bomb. We appreciate the restraint and readily scoop up the final bits of meringue.
With just seven days to see the four chefs joining forces, “Min Jiang Reimagined” is certainly worth a try. The variety of techniques and inspirations they bring to the table is refreshing; plus, with the Leongs moving into semi-retirement, it’s probably a good idea to catch them any chance you get.
