At the heart of it all: A deep dive into the restaurants at Guoco Midtown

With cuisines from all around the world converging here, there’s no shortage of choices when it comes to those three much-dreaded words: “what to eat?” And for the after-work crowd seeking tipples, you’ve got watering holes such as dal.komm’s Playground concept, which serves not just the usual lattes, but also beer and makgeolli. 

Plus, there’s a limited-time-only deal that runs from now till Nov 17, at Playground and several other venues in Guoco Midtown on Fridays and Saturdays. British Indian Curry Hut, for instance, is offering specialty bites such as chicken tikka with an alcoholic drink for just $10. Over at halal-certified Summer Folks Café & Steakhouse, the same sum will get you a slice of cake and a mocktail.

From elevated Japanese fare at Setsuri Ishinomaki to casual café bites at The Telegraph by Olivia, Options runs through some of the great eats available at Guoco Midtown. 

See also: Splash and sip at this season's coolest hangout spots

Flutes: A culinary journey

When Flutes first opened as Flutes at the Fort in 2004, we had the pleasure of attending a tasting event there. Located in Fort Canning Hill, the restaurant featured modern Australian cuisine, which was quite popular at that time. We vividly recall savouring a flawless menu set in a warm and inviting ambience. 

It was one of those places that had us returning on a regular basis. Our visits continued even after Flutes relocated to the National Museum Singapore, where it embraced a modern British menu.

See also: China’s latest soft power move: The Black Pearl Restaurant Guide

This year, Flutes has moved to the historic Midtown House, formerly the Beach Road Police Station. Naturally, we found ourselves there — some might even call us culinary stalkers. And who could blame us? The new menu offers an enticing blend of contemporary European dishes with subtle Singaporean influences.

While some restaurants struggle to keep up with changing trends in the F&B industry, Flutes has charted a culinary path of its own. Its commitment to sustainability and ethical sourcing is commendable, with all seafood responsibly sourced and meats obtained from suppliers dedicated to environmental stewardship. It has also implemented a comprehensive plan for waste reduction through advanced composting initiatives and future greenhouse projects.

The interior, designed by the renowned local firm David Grace Designs, incorporates elements of the building’s history, including louvred panel windows and colonial decor. Located in Singapore’s civic district, history enthusiasts will appreciate how the structure has been preserved, maintaining much of its original character.

The kitchen is led by executive chef Peter Rollinson, who crafts a seasonal menu highlighting the freshest ingredients. One standout dish we sampled from the set menu ($68++ for three courses, and $58++ for two) was the Warilba organic grass-fed lamb cutlet, paired with shepherd’s pie pastry and served on a shallow bed of mint sauce. 

The lamb, sourced from the Dorper breed that thrives in various grazing conditions — specifically in Australia — is tender, sweet, and succulent, beautifully complemented by the crunch of the pastry. The humble shepherd’s pie is elevated to delicate elegance, with the mashed potato nestled between two layers of pastry.

For dessert, we enjoyed the honey panna cotta with orange, mango, and Grand Marnier. It arrived wobbling perfectly — the hallmark of a well-made panna cotta, which can be fiddly to prepare and has sent many of its makers home, as every MasterChef Australia contestant would know. 

This fresh and delightful ending provided a lovely conclusion to our time at Flutes. After all, a touch of Grand Marnier never hurt anyone. 

For more lifestyle, arts and fashion trends, click here for Options Section

Setsuri: Gratifying grills

There’s more than one way to skin a cat, they say — and there’s also more than one way to grill a fish. Four, at least, going by what we see in Setsuri.

Smoke and char are placed centre stage in this latest concept by the Ishinomaki Group, run by husband-and-wife duo Chi Pin Han and Janice Chi. Quite literally, in fact; on entering the space one is greeted with an ever-so-slight haze along with the alluring smell of toasty binchotan and rice straw.

But don’t let the smoke and mirrors — so to speak — let you think this is just another spot to get your grill on. On the menu is a variety of traditional Japanese fare, featuring both grilled and non-grilled items. Among the latter group is the tsubugai (sea whelk) served with octopus kimchi ($12++); the house-made kimchi really sings in this sweet, fermenty and salty starter, priming us for the courses ahead.

The tamagoyaki with spicy cod roe ($14++) also comes up as an early favourite; a full slab of roe sits atop gently cooked egg, with the flavours of each complementing one another to create a dish that’s rich and decadent, yet light enough to stay moreish. Then comes the crab and mushroom donabe ($55++), which feeds two. The aroma of crab stands out strong here, infused throughout the rice. 

We then move into the first of our grilled proteins: a slab of honey miso salmon ($24++) that’s been gently cooked genshiyaki style. Here, the fish has been cooked over wood ash imported from Kagoshima. The flesh turns tender and almost buttery from the low and slow process, practically sliding down our throats on its own.

Of course, there’s no running from the classic robatayaki here. We particularly love the tsukune skewers ($10++ for two); the delicate mince is given a boost by the inclusion of small bits of cartilage, while a lightly sweet marinade and binchotan fragrance ties everything together. 

That’s the kind of food we’d imagine would go great with the shelves of shochu that Setsuri has. Over 60 labels are available at the restaurant, available by the glass and by the bottle. A certified master sake sommelier, Janice tells us she’s gotten increasingly into the lesser-known Japanese drink as well. “Japanese shochus are an integral part of Japanese drinking culture,” she says.

Leaving Setsuri, we feel a deep sense of comfort. Maybe it’s the warmth that comes after a few glasses of shochu, or maybe it’s the meal of classics that’s left us feeling like we’ve just come home from a trip across Japan. Whatever it is, we’re perfectly satisfied. 

The Telegraph: Casual café 

A new outpost of Suntec City favourite Olivia & Co has opened in Guoco Midtown. Like the original, The Telegraph offers globally inspired cuisine in a relaxed setting. There’s something for everyone here: weekday office-goers can grab an americano and croissant, those knocking off can sit down for dinner with a drink, and the weekend brunch crowd can dig into a long list of all-day-breakfast items. 

Starting our meal here, the clams in white wine ($18.60++) are fresh and light with a garlicky broth, while the scallops and prosciutto ($24.80++) come in a set of three shells, each piped with corn puree and topped with a savoury squid ink tuile. The latter stands out for the contrast of textures, with the crisp tuile and prosciutto popping against the tender scallop and light puree.

We then get our carb-fix with the truffle prawn alfredo ($26.80++). The sauce is fragrant and savoury; there’s a hint of truffle aroma, but not too much to overpower everything else. The dish is served with ribbon-shaped malfadine pasta, a great vehicle for the thick sauce.

Moving into the mains, the miso-baked salmon ($26.80++) is firm and sweet, balanced by the lightly salty miso and the sides of mashed potatoes and mushrooms. Those looking for something to share can also choose from a number of platters, including a meat-focused one ($58.80++) and a charcuterie ($57.80++).

While our first visit leaves us too full to try The Telegraph’s desserts, we return another day to sample the Canary ($12.80++), a tangy lemon-lime tart with a white chocolate ganache. Also available at the original Olivia & Co, here the citrus notes punch hard, especially when paired with a nectarine ice cream on the side.

The Telegraph also carries a solid selection of wines, alongside a menu of beers, spirits and mostly classic cocktails. We particularly enjoy its rendition of the Tokyo Iced Tea ($23++) — sweet, fruity and well-balanced, the deceptively liquor-heavy drink is an easy sipper fit for an end-of-day meal. 

Mirai: Bring the fire

Located in a corner of Midtown Market, Mirai Robatayaki & Sushi Restaurant is certainly a more understated venue than its neighbours. 

Surrounding it are decidedly flashier eateries like Umai and Mashi no Mashi, both of which boast flashy, bold branding. Still, there’s something cool about the subtle, classic appearance that Mirai has gone for. It’s also not unexpected; the restaurant comes from the same folks behind Nanami Izakaya, which also has a casual vibe at its space in Skysuites @ Anson.

Despite its name, Mirai serves more than just robatayaki and sushi. The menu more or less runs the gamut of Japanese cuisine, with offerings from tiger prawn tempura ($20++) to oden ($18++ for five kinds, $25++ for seven) and even steamboat. The restaurant also has a substantial range of sakes, as well as a small selection of umeshu, shochu and spirits.

Starting off, we get the matsu sashimi platter ($88++), which comes with seven types of sashimi, rotated daily. The fish is sliced to a just-right thickness, so it’s unctuous without feeling too much. We also get the gobou salad ($16++) — thinly sliced, deep-fried burdock root served atop chicken slices and sesame-tossed greens. We almost wish we could take back that crisp burdock root in a bag for snacking during particularly busy work-from-home days.

Another standout on Mirai’s menu is the kanimiso kourayaki ($18++). Here, the flesh and tomalley of crab are paired with quail egg and ikura; the resultant dish is decadent and intensely savoury, all plated in a crab shell.

From the grill, we get the seasonally priced kinmedai (golden eye snapper) and the A5 wagyu sumiyaki ($98++ for 150g). The fish is incredibly tender from the gentle heat, with crispy skin that would turn any deep-frying enthusiast jealous. The beef, meanwhile, is easily our favourite dish here. Lightly smoky, bite-sized pieces are elevated with a pinch of pink salt on the side.

Our time at Mirai is unpretentious, easy and relaxed, paired with good food and drinks — that’s a winning combination, in our book.