Louis Cartier, despite never visiting Japan, harboured a passion for Japanese art, evident in his vast collection of Japanese objects and books. Known for his discerning taste and appreciation of aesthetics, Louis Cartier not only amassed these artifacts but also inspired his designers to find inspiration in them, sparking their creativity.
This infusion of Japanese art and culture left a mark on Cartier's designs, influencing the Maison's distinctive style and thematic choices. Louis Cartier's influential yet remote connection to Japanese art significantly shaped Cartier's aesthetic evolution.
In 1974, Cartier inaugurated its first boutique in the Harajuku district of Tokyo at Palais France. Japan at this time was experiencing significant economic growth and social change, marking the peak of its post-World War II recovery period. This era, known as the "Japanese economic miracle," witnessed rapid industrialization, urbanization, and technological advancements.
Fast forward fifty years, the enduring bond between Cartier and Japan is celebrated through the immersive exhibition "MUSUBI-Half-Century of Cartier in Japan and Beyond: an Everlasting Dialogue of Beauty and Art" at the Hyokeikan, running until July 28th.
The core theme of the exhibition revolves around the concept of the "Knot," tracing its origins to Japanese mythology of "MUSUBI" (Musuhi or Musubi). In this context, "musu" signifies "to produce," while "hi" embodies "the mysterious work of a divine spirit." The term "MUSUBI" is interpreted as symbolizing the generation of divine power through the act of being intricately united.
Organised into two distinct sections: "Cartier and Japan, a Tribute to Art and Beauty" and "Fondation Cartier pour lʼart contemporain and Japanese artists, a never-ending conversation."
The section "Cartier and Japan, a Tribute to Art and Beauty" is an invitation to put on comfortable footwear and come with an inquisitive mind, ready to be awed by more than 170 exquisite objects. Guests will have the opportunity to marvel at the beauty coming from Maison Cartier creations – whether sourced from the Cartier Collection, the Maison's historical archive, or specially lent for this event.
Large Portique mystery clock
See also: Celebrate Cartier’s centenary of Trinity
The Japanese exhibitions dedicated to Cartier since 1988, showcases a selection of the most prestigious pieces from the Cartier Collection. As our journey nears its conclusion, the final room serves as a reflection on 50 years of interaction between Cartier and a transforming Japan. This narrative emphasizes how Cartier has captured the essence of each era while upholding its principles of fostering a deep appreciation for Japan's dynamic creativity in fields such as architecture, design, and contemporary art.
With each viewing, one can almost feel Cartier's deep admiration for Japanese art. A clock on a stand echoes the elegance of a Japanese hand mirror, a mesmerising mystery clock that pays homage to the architecture of a Shinto temple, an inro gives life to a luxurious vanity case, and a dragonfly takes flight from an old print to grace a brooch with diamond-adorned wings.
This reimagined vision of Japan has created an iconographic language that continues to influence Cartier's designs to this day. Symbols like dragons, chimeras, phoenixes, and tigers—elements steeped in the traditions of both China and Japan—have transcended time, becoming integral components of the enduring Cartier aesthetic.
Powder compact
The influence of Japanese culture is reflected in the selection of materials and the application of artisanal techniques, particularly the prominent use of lacquer in Cartier's creations during the early 20th century. Additionally, the incorporation of wickerwork provides a versatile canvas for various motifs and an expanded abstract vocabulary.
However, it was the Katagami motifs that inspired Cartier's designers. From the onset of the 20th century to the contemporary era, the wave and scale patterns have adorned pieces like brooches, combs, and more recently, a wristwatch crafted today.
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Cartier's ability to blend contemporary relevance with timeless elegance has been evident in its enduring presence in Japan for over five decades. As a trailblazer, Cartier not only recognizes but also embraces the spirit of its time. Acting as a visionary, the Maison has adeptly navigated the significant challenges of each era.
Cigarette and vanity case
In 1974, collaborating with leading decorators and antique specialists of the era, the Maison's identity took shape within an enchanting 'mystery garden,' where bronze and polychromatic wooden sculptures showcased the jewelry, offering a genuine aesthetic immersion and a captivating journey into creativity.
These elements have left a lasting imprint on Cartier's legacy in Japan, where each significant occasion serves as a fresh canvas for creativity, consistently emphasising freedom and ingenuity. From the collaboration with artist Katsuhiko Hibino in 1997, who crafted pieces inspired by the iconic Trinity ring, to the commission of Shingo Katori in 2017, tasked with commemorating the Tank watch's centenary by blending a classic, elegantly refined symbol with a vibrant burst of colour.
Shifting our attention to the wing of the Hyokeikan, we encounter "Fondation Cartier Pour L’art Contemporain And Japanese Artists: A Never-Ending Conversation." Here, the spotlight is placed on the artistic collaborations fostered by the Fondation Cartier, established with the aim of championing contemporary art and fostering continual exchanges with Japanese artists.
Maison Cartier's relationship with Japan necessitates acknowledging the intimate rapport between the Fondation Cartier and Japanese artists since its inception in 1984. Throughout the years, the Fondation has been at the forefront of introducing or reintroducing Japanese artists to European audiences, granting them the creative liberty to innovate and venture into uncharted territories.
Scroll Tiara
Through exhibitions, publications, commissions, and acquisitions for its collections, the Fondation Cartier has cultivated a vibrant community of Japanese artists, engaging in an ongoing dialogue with them. This dialogue is vividly portrayed through a series of 20 portraits of Japanese artists—collaborators with the Fondation Cartier over the years—painted by Tadanori Yokoo. Since 2014, Yokoo has been entrusted with capturing this artistic "community" in a visual format.
By orchestrating this ensemble of the Fondation Cartier, Yokoo offers a representation of an institution that cherishes human connections at the core of its mission and endeavors, shaping its identity around a collective of artists and intellectuals.
In honour of Cartier's 50th anniversary in Japan, the artist embarked on a special project, creating a series of 50 paintings during a 36-day tour across the country. Fulfilling his ambition to pay tribute to Hiroshige Utagawa and his "Fifty-three Tokaido Stations" series (1832), the artist commenced his pilgrimage from Nihonbashi, tracing the footsteps of the renowned Ukiyo-e master.
Journeying through all 47 prefectures of Japan, he painted a daily sky view featured on the front page of each local newspaper. This commemorative initiative, blending the historical, present, and future aspects of the Cartier-Japan relationship, mirrors Sho Shibuya's "the Fifty Sky Views of Japan," symbolizing the enduring nature of these connections and serving as a testament to a history perpetually in flux and renewal.
Half-Century of Cartier in Japan and Beyond: an Everlasting Dialogue of Beauty and Art
Date: Wednesday, June 12—Sunday, July 28, 2024
Closed on Mondays（except for July 15)and July 16
Opening hours: 9:30-17:00 *9:30-19:00 on Fridays, Saturdays
(Last admission 30 minutes before closing）
Venue: Hyokeikan, Tokyo National Museum
13-9 Ueno Park, Taito-ku, Tokyo, 110-8712, Japan
Organized by: Tokyo National Museum in collaboration with Cartier
Special collaboration: Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain
Supported by : Ambassade de France au Japon, Institut Français du Japon
Exhibition design and scenography: Studio Adrien Gardère
Admission: Adults: ¥1,500 / University students: ¥1,200
