In the culinary world, achieving a Michelin star symbolises excellence, innovation, and dedication to the art of gastronomy. In a remarkable turn of events this year, Seroja, a restaurant nestled in the heart of Singapore, has not only earned a coveted Michelin star but also clinched Singapore’s inaugural Michelin Green Star. At the helm of this culinary triumph is chef Kevin Wong, whose deep-rooted passion for Malaysian cuisine has propelled Seroja to its well-deserved recognition.
Seroja’s journey to Michelin stardom is a testament to the restaurant’s commitment to showcasing the diverse flavours of Malaysian cuisine. Drawing inspiration from traditional recipes while embracing modern techniques, Wong has masterfully crafted a menu that celebrates the rich culinary heritage of Malaysia. This year, the accolades bestowed upon Seroja reflect the dedication, creativity, and expertise that Wong brings to every dish.
Options had the opportunity to dine at Seroja with Wong, where he shares a tale of nostalgia, love and passion through his food.
What is the concept of Seroja, and how did you come up with the name?
Seroja is named after the place I was born and grew up in — Jalan Seroja in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia — where my family still resides. I wanted to create a restaurant where you feel at home when you come here to eat. It’s as if people are coming to my home, and I, as a chef, treat them to good food.
As for the concept, I find that the countries within the region share so many similarities. Seroja is a tribute and celebration to the Malay Archipelago region, which is rich in history and culture. Because we have a lot of migration of different cultures within the region, we keep seeing new flavours and eating habits born out of this assimilation.
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Seroja was born out of that concept of diversity, and we want to champion and celebrate the people in the region. To do that, we also work closely with craftsmen, florists, carpenters and farmers in the region.
How did your previous experience bring you here today?
I live in a very Asian household, where some careers were perceived to be better than others. Most of my cousins and siblings have degrees, and although I had good grades, I knew that a corporate job was not something I wanted to pursue.
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I am the kind of person where if I put my mind to something, I know it will turn out well. In 2012, I decided to be a chef after my studies. I still don’t know if it was the right or wrong choice. But slowly, I developed a sense of belonging in the industry and settled into my role as a chef.
In the beginning, I was not very good in the kitchen. I was one of the worst because I have a strong character and don’t like being told to do things. I would say many restaurants are very structured or militarised, and hierarchy plays a big role. Although I was rebellious, I’m still glad to have great mentors who saw my potential and were patient with me.
What inspired you to be a chef?
I started working in the kitchen when I was very young. When I was 14, I worked part-time in a Cantonese restaurant pushing dim sum carts and waiting tables at Chinese wedding banquets. I’ve always been in the F&B scene, but after my studies, I didn’t know what to do, so I spun Russian roulette and became a chef. I have never turned back since.
Being away from your family must be tough. How do they support you from Malaysia?
I know that they are proud of me. I now have a graduation photo like the rest of my siblings; I have a picture of me holding up my Michelin star.
My parents always tell me, “Life is never easy and always difficult.” Although they cannot relate to the life of a chef, they have always supported me and never once told me to change careers.
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I’m thankful to my parents for everything I needed growing up. I did not have luxury, but I had food, shelter, and education, and never lacked anything.
My dad always ensured I had to work for the things I wanted. Having started working when I was 14, I was taught from a very young to be disciplined with my finances. Being a chef is tough because, as a young chef, you don’t get paid much, which could crush your dreams of being a good chef.
What inspires your cooking, and what influences your menu creation?
People and dialogues. We have a lot of talented individuals in the region, with tons of great produce. If you think about it, we are not lacking anything, but we seem not to be appreciative enough of our own cultures. So, my dishes in my menu are inspired by these underappreciated moments.
Each dish celebrates the Malay Archipelago for being a region with good food. I noticed that many traditional dishes have not been elevated, and this space hasn’t had much innovation or creativity. With my experience and background, I see the ingredients from a different perspective.
It will be sad if there is no one to preserve the culture and a shame if this cuisine is not elevated. This lack of development in this culinary style inspires me to do what I do today.
How does it feel to be the first in Singapore to win the Green Star?
Singapore has never had a Green Star before, so I never expected to win this. I just opened my restaurant about eight months ago and honestly did not expect anything. I still don’t know how it happened, but I’m very thankful.
As for sustainability, it is within our everyday practice. The building we are in recycles rainwater and distributes it to all the retail outlets, while 10% of our energy is powered by solar energy. We also have a garden to make compost.
Sourcing is also very important, and as I’ve mentioned, we collaborate with different farms across the region, especially in Malaysia. We cycle our menu based on the farmers’ harvest and try incorporating more shellfish because it’s better for the environment.
What are some goals for yourself and Seroja?
I want my team to be happy and continue being here. And just like how I left Malaysia to go to France to learn about the cuisine there, I hope for someone to want to leave their home to come to Singapore to learn about Malay Archipelago cuisine.
I look forward to spreading the movement and educating others on the abundance of tropical produce in this region and how we can utilise it. Instead of this being a short-term trend, I hope it is a long-term movement. Bit by bit, I hope to spread Seroja’s wings and become a better version of what it is today.
A gastronomic journey through Malaysia
A visit to Seroja promises a voyage into the heart of Malaysia, where traditional techniques dance with modern flair on each plate.
As you step inside, you’re welcomed by an ambience that exudes understated elegance. The interiors blend warm wood tones and contemporary design, creating an inviting yet sophisticated atmosphere. The subdued lighting casts a romantic glow, setting the stage for a memorable dining experience. Adorned in traditional attire, the attentive staff guides you through the culinary journey ahead.
Seroja’s menu reads like a love letter to the diverse regions of Malaysia. Each dish is thoughtfully crafted to highlight the nuances of the ingredients and techniques while paying homage to the country’s rich culinary heritage. From the moment the first dish arrives at your table, you’re transported to a region in Malaysia, as chef Wong introduces you to some of the cultural flavours there.
The meal starts with a range of snacks — Tiram, Conch and Obsiblue prawn — to whet the appetite and tease what is to come. Next, a salad dish is served — or as Wong likes to put it, “the only healthy dish on the menu” — which features a range of seasonal harvests from various farms across Malaysia, drizzled with a delightful peanut sauce.
The bread is one of the highlights. Called Roti Paung (a word play on “pound bread”), these small butter buns originated from Terengganu. Don’t eat them all at once; save some to soak up the sauce in the next dishes, such as the Hand Dived Scallop and Line Caught Kinmedai.
For carbs, we are served a noodle version of the famous Malaysian nasi ulam. The herb noodle, however, has been changed in this season’s menu to wheat noodle, featuring a creamy sauce made of century eggs and served with mud crab and winter truffles.
The Jasmine Tea Duck Broth is a smoky and sweet tea-based soup to cleanse the palate for the BBQ Duck Percik main course.
Rounding up the meal are desserts that also showcase Wong’s artistry and expertise in Asian flavours. They include the Cempedak, Malayan Meringue, Borneo Raw Sugar Bahulu and 70% Single Origin Chemor Dark Chocolate.
At $268++ per person for the dinner menu, I would say that Wong has thoughtfully curated and elevated some of Malaysia’s best foods. His creativity shines through every dish; you can taste the thought and effort into creating the menu.
Seroja
7 Fraser Street
#01-30/31/32/33 Duo Galleria
Singapore 189356
Contact
Tel: +65 8522 2926
Email: info@seroja.sg
Opening hours
Tuesdays to Saturdays - 6pm to 11pm (Last seating at 8:30pm)
Fridays & Saturdays - 12pm to 2.30pm
