At the ground level of the InterContinental Robertson Quay is the upscale 76-seater restaurant Ummi Beirut. Offering modern Lebanese cuisine with heartfelt flair, it is the first in a series of collaborations between RB Food Group and Lebanese entrepreneur Sara Fenianos.
Behind the splendid gastronomic experience is renowned Lebanese-Australian chef Greg Malouf, godfather of modern Lebanese cuisine. The intent, explains the Melbourne-born, Michelin-starred chef, is to serve a contemporary cuisine less constrained by tradition, where classic dishes are reinterpreted as lighter, more layered and contemporary plated versions.
Co-helming the kitchen is his protégé, executive chef Ali Assaf, who does so with an assured flair.
The restaurant’s casual outdoor terrace, seating 20, is evocative of cafés and courtyards in Beirut with its lush greenery, rattan furniture, and mosaics. Heavy wooden doors open into a beguiling luxuriant area that accommodates up to 56 diners. The softly lit space features full-length windows framed by cascading curtains, latticework detailing, and pastel geometric mosaic floor tiles. Beirut was once dubbed the Paris of the Middle East and the resplendent interiors are a fitting homage, with customised wallpaper featuring the Beirut Rose motif adding to the allure.
Still, it is the delectable cuisine which assuredly takes centrestage. Freshness and authenticity are key, and so specific products like Aleppo pepper, sumac, rosewater and tableware are procured directly from souks in Beirut. Premium meats air-flown from Australia and fresh herbs garnered from local farms are also essential in the curation of choice ingredients.
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Our dinner opens with Mezzes, a tasty array of cold and hot dishes. The Silky Hummus With French Lentil Dressing proves a spot-on velvety treat. So irresistible is the smooth mix of pureed organic chickpeas, tahini and baby lentil salad, we dive right in with freshly baked pita bread.
The Tabbouleh salad brims over with juicy tomatoes, pomegranate, spring onions, mint, cracked wheat, finely chopped parsley and a zingy lemon dressing.
A must-try is the Salmon Bastourma, which is spicy cured salmon accented with green chilli sauce. Cured for three days, and seasoned with paprika fenugreek, cumin and coriander powder, the flavourful dish makes us jostle, albeit gently, for the last juicy morsel.
The Makanek Sausages, too, are delectable. Made in-house, the spiced lamb sausages are seasoned with signature spices. Sweet crunchy nuts, pomegranate and lemon syrup glaze add the finishing touches to this hot plate dish.
For mains to share, a great option is the Musakhan — filo pastry stuffed with slow cooked chicken and garnished with caramelised onion and sumac. Another recommendation is the Saayadiya — locally farmed sea bass with caramelised onion rice, crisp nuts and shredded coriander.
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We rounded off the meal with the crispy Kunefe dessert with apricot that offers a toned-down sweetness. The baked shredded pastry, made in-house, is enhanced with apricot confit, sweet cheese, pistachios and rose syrup. Thin batter is artfully spun into delicate strands, ensuring a scrumptious lightness.
The beverage list highlights Lebanese wine makers and cocktails. Feeling adventurous? Try arak, a potent drink distilled from native grape varietals and anise seed.
Service is impeccable and unobtrusive. Explanations of dishes are detailed and insightful. As the weekday night progresses, the restaurant fills up steadily. In tandem, an evocative modern Arabic soundtrack morphs into one with a more pulsating beat. The buzz is palpable and as warmly spirited as the feasting. Ummi means “my mother” in Arabic, and the matriarchal qualities of warm hospitality, familial sharing and artful cooking are well exemplified in the dining experience.
Ummi Beirut
InterContinental Robertson Quay
1 Nanson Road
Singapore 238 909
Operating Hours:
Tues to Fri: 6pm-11pm
Sat to Sun: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-11pm
Contact:
Tel: +65 6970 1797
www.ummibeirut.com
