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Cartier’s perception of time emphasises the pursuit of transformation and reinvention

Audrey Simon
Audrey Simon • 8 min read
Cartier’s perception of time emphasises the pursuit of transformation and reinvention
Cartier’s perception of time emphasises the pursuit of transformation and reinvention
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Cartier’s perception of time revolves around a cyclical nature, with a strong emphasis on the pursuit of transformation and reinvention

Cartier crafts timeless pieces that transcend the boundaries of time with collections that venture into a realm of reimagination and transformation. This year’s collection includes the Tank, the original idea that Louis Cartier predicted would be successful, represented this year by a new Tank Normale — in reference to the very first one, created in 1917 — and by the elegant Tank Américaine. Two hallmarks of Cartier watchmaking, along with new interpretations of the Pasha, Baignoire, Panthère and Santos de Cartier watches. To add to this, the Clash [Un]limited watch is a true creative fusion that takes the aesthetic heritage of the Clash collection and evolves it even further.

Tank Normale

Each year, the Cartier Privé collection serves as a haven for collectors who appreciate and delve into the house’s renowned models, each produced in limited numbered series. Presently, Cartier Privé unveils its highly anticipated Tank Normale.
The Tank, a remarkable creation by Louis Cartier in 1917, holds a significant place in the house’s watchmaking history. This year, the Tank Normale introduces an hour/minute version that faithfully preserves the original proportions and bevelled sapphire crystal. It is available in two exquisite options: yellow gold with a brown alligator strap and platinum with a black alligator strap.
For those seeking a bracelet, the model can also be acquired with a yellow gold or platinium bracelet, incorporating satin and polished finishes reminiscent of the 1970s.
Cartier showcases its expertise by incorporating a skeleton movement into the Tank Normale, complemented by a 24-hour complication depicted through a skeletonized sun and crescent moon.
In this unique timepiece, the minute hand completes a full rotation in one hour, while the hour hand takes 24 hours, deviating from the traditional 12-hour rotation.
The yellow gold version is paired with a brown and green alligator strap, featuring a blue sapphire cabochon on the winding crown. As for the platinum version, it is accompanied by a burgundy and grey alligator strap, adorned with a ruby cabochon on the winding crown.
Remaining true to the original Tank’s design codes, these watches display blued hands, a cabochon on the winding crown, rail tracks and a secret signature.

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Lou Dillon: Cartier has been a part of both my family and me for a long time. To celebrate love and special occasions! For my eighteenth birthday, my mother gave me a Baignoire watch. Cartier, the elegance and chic of the sapphire, the sobriety of the dial, the timelessness of the form

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Baignoire

One of the many novelties unveiled by Cartier, the Baignoire watch has garnered significant attention, captivating enthusiasts not only with its exquisite beauty but also with the profound historical legacy it embodies. Following the introduction of the square-shaped Santos watch in 1904 and the daring design of the Tortue in 1906, the house introduced a remarkable timepiece in 1912 featuring a rectangular case with elegantly rounded ends.
This concept continued to evolve over the years, culminating in the creation of the renowned “curved oval” watch in 1958. With its gently curved case meticulously crafted to harmonise with the contours of the wrist, the Baignoire watch exemplifies the house’s commitment to timeless elegance and innovation.
Just launched is the mini version of the Baignoire watch which features a miniature case with a bangle, like a gadroon that has been expanded, encircles the delicate dial in gold. With the purity of line, precision of form and accuracy of proportion: it is worn as a piece of jewellery.

The face of the advertising campaigns is Lou Doillon, an artist renowned for her multifaceted talents. She embodies the essence of the Cartier community, consisting of Parisian women who value elegance alongside freedom and spirit.
The watch is available in two versions, each offering its unique charm. The first version exudes pure elegance, embracing a “less is more” philosophy. It confidently asserts itself through its delicate proportions, where the radiant yellow gold bezel beautifully contrasts with a sleek black patent leather strap. This rendition showcases a refined and couture-inspired aesthetic, representing a new expression of its singularity that is equally captivating.
In the second version, the watch’s iconic oval shape transforms into a stunning bangle, forming a circle of radiant gold that gracefully adorns the wrist. With options in rose, yellow, or white gold, all meticulously paved, this rendition becomes even more captivating with its curved case designed to fit snugly on the wrist. Being part of Cartier’s design culture, it effortlessly harmonises with other iconic Cartier creations, offering endless possibilities for personalisation and style.

Santos-Dumont

Some describe this timepiece as understated, a fitting characterisation as this year’s edition houses the new 9629 MC automatic skeleton calibre. Watch enthusiasts will be pleased to learn that the aesthetics of the original 1904 model have been meticulously preserved, allowing the timeless design to shine through.
With a gold or steel case, visible screws, a beaded crown and blue cabochon, each detail pays tribute to the aviator. The movement includes a miniaturised functional oscillating weight in the shape of a replica of the Demoiselle, a trailblazing plane designed by the pilot in 1907. The symbol is made all the more powerful as it seems to soar over a globe.
This aesthetic and technical tribute to Alberto Santos-Dumont is a feat of achievement level with his own. He was a man who always aimed higher, designing more than 22 flying machines, accumulating patents for inventions and putting his life on the line during every one of his experimental flights. This new micro-rotor calibre took the Cartier Manufacture at La Chaux-de-Fonds almost two years to develop and is comprised of 212 components.
Crafted in rose gold and steel, the Santos-Dumont skeleton watch exemplifies sophistication. Taking it a step further, a limited edition version is available in yellow gold with navy lacquer. Every detail, from the bezel to the case, is meticulously lacquered, including the delicate application of lacquer onto the skeleton bridges, expertly done by hand.

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Tank Américaine

Taking inspiration from the curved case design of the Tank Cintrée watch, the Tank Américaine was introduced in 1989. It was during this year that the watch showcased the first adjustable strap specifically designed for the renowned folding buckle, which Cartier had patented back in 1910.
In this year’s iteration, the timepiece embraces a sleek and minimalist design, further enhanced by the dial style and the seamless integration of the brancards into the strap extension. Equipped with the new 1899 MC movement designed for slimmer cases, the Tank Américaine watch is available in various options: All-gold and steel with a leather strap, rose gold and diamonds with a leather strap or diamond-paved white and rose gold with a metal bracelet.
Crafted exclusively for the Tank Américaine, the bracelet features polished facets that beautifully capture and reflect light, adding an exquisite touch to the overall design.

Small model, quartz movement. Case in yellow gold 750/1000. Yellow and violet gold 750/1000 bracelet. Silvered sunray dial, golden-finish steel sword-shaped hands and sapphire crystal. Case dimensions: 18.4mm x 32.8mm, thickness 8.1mm

Clash [Un]limited

The Clash [Un]limited collection offers a captivating glimpse into a world where beads, picot studs, clou carrés and fluidity converge to create an elegant timepiece. Drawing inspiration from the 1930s, an era when Jeanne Toussaint held the position of director of fine jewellery at Cartier, these designs pay homage to her audacious creations for duchesses, moguls and maharajas. The Clash [Un]limited watch seamlessly blends elements from the past and present, employing chromatic contrasts that highlight geometric motifs through alternating brushed and satin-finish gold. Yellow or rose gold harmoniously intertwines with violet gold, giving rise to a mesmerizing shade of shimmering violet.
Released in limited quantities, the Clash [Un]limited watch is available in diamond-paved yellow gold, rose gold, and white gold. It also comes in black and white variations adorned with onyx, black spinels, obsidian and diamonds, or in a diverse array of colours featuring coral, black spinels, chrysoprase, tsavorites and diamonds.

Rose gold 750/1000 case set with 20 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.48 cts, spinels, coral and chrysoprase. Rose gold 750/1000 bracelet set
with 603 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 9.23 cts, spinels, tsavorites, coral and chrysoprase. Rose gold 750/1000 dial set with 71 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.39 cts, tsavorite. Rose-finish steel sword- shaped hands, sapphire crystal. Case dimensions: 18.4mm x 32.7mm, thickness 8.1mm

Small model, quartz movement. Case in yellow gold 750/1000. Yellow and violet gold 750/1000 bracelet. Silvered sunray dial, golden-finish steel sword-shaped hands and sapphire crystal. Case dimensions: 18.4mm x 32.8mm, thickness 8.1mm

Rose gold 750/1000 case set with 20 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.48 cts, spinels, coral and chrysoprase. Rose gold 750/1000 bracelet set with 603 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 9.23 cts, spinels, tsavorites, coral and chrysoprase. Rose gold 750/1000 dial set with 71 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.39 cts, tsavorite. Rose-finish steel sword-shaped hands, sapphire crystal. Case dimensions: 18.4mm x 32.7mm, thickness 8.1mm

Small model, quartz movement. Case in yellow gold 750/1000. Yellow and violet gold 750/1000 bracelet. Silvered sunray dial, golden-finish steel sword-shaped hands and sapphire crystal. Case dimensions: 18.4mm x 32.8mm, thickness 8.1mm

Small model, quartz movement. Case in yellow gold 750/1000. Yellow and violet gold 750/1000 bracelet. Silvered sunray dial, golden-finish steel sword-shaped hands and sapphire crystal. Case dimensions: 18.4mm x 32.8mm, thickness 8.1mm

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