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The Rolex Perpetual 1908 is the dress watch we’ve been waiting for

Samantha Chiew
Samantha Chiew • 4 min read
The Rolex Perpetual 1908 is the dress watch we’ve been waiting for
The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 in 18 ct yellow gold with an intense white dial and brown alligator leather strap
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Inspired by an Oyster Perpetual from 1931, this completely new timepiece heralds the arrival of the Perpetual collection

This year, Rolex is making a bold move by launching the Perpetual 1908, a new collection introduced for the first time since the Oyster Perpetual 39 in 2015. The conception and creation of this new model testify to the Manufacture’s comprehensive in-house expertise.

Unveiled this year, the 1908 heralds the arrival of the Perpetual collection, which unites the time-honoured principles of traditional watchmaking style with the essence of Rolex’s know-how and aesthetic heritage. The elegance and refinement of the lines, volumes and colours are complemented by the noble materials used. Similarly, the simplicity and purity of the display highlight the technical sophistication and beauty of the movement — visible through the transparent caseback.

Equipped with calibre 7140, a movement wholly developed and manufactured by the brand, unveiled in 2023 and fitted with a transparent case back which allows the movement to be seen and admired

The launch of the 1908 pays homage to the date the ‘Rolex’ trademark was officially registered in Switzerland, while reiterating the conviction that the future of the wristwatch is inseparable from superlative performance. Wilsdorf once said: “Rolex must continuously strive to think and act differently from the rest.”

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Heir to the brand’s aesthetic heritage and boasting exclusive watchmaking innovations, the elegant 1908 marks a new milestone in the Manufacture's quest for excellence. This fine example of Rolex’s watchmaking prowess, with Superlative Chronometer certification, brings classicism to the future.

Inspired by one of the first Rolex watches fitted with the Perpetual rotor. This new collection is a reinterpretation of traditional horological style imbued with quintessential watchmaking expertise and the aesthetic heritage of Rolex.

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[Left to right] The Rolex Perpetual 1908 in 18 ct yellow gold with an intense black dial and black alligator leather strap; the Rolex Perpetual 1908 in 18 ct yellow gold with an intense white dial and brown alligator leather strap

While Wilsdorf’s revolutionary innovations concerned the technical features of the wristwatch, they were also the fruit of an extremely strong aesthetic vision. The silhouette of the 18 ct gold case as well as the design of the 1908’s dial reinvent the classic — yet very modern — spirit of one of the first Rolex watches fitted with the Perpetual rotor. The ultimate harmonious watch paves the way for a watchmaking future where delicacy and performance go hand in hand.

The 1908 is a notably elegant watch with a traditional touch. Displayed on its face are the Arabic numerals 3, 9 and 12, as well as a small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. Meanwhile, the faceted 18 ct gold hour markers match the different styles of hands: sword-shaped for the minutes and with a circle for the hours.

[Left to right] The Rolex Perpetual 1908 in 18 ct white gold with an intense black dial and black alligator leather strap; the Rolex Perpetual 1908 in 18 ct white gold with an intense white dial and brown alligator leather strap

The case, with a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 9.5 mm, comes in polished yellow or white gold with intense black or intense white dial. It is fitted with a black or brown alligator-leather strap with green calfskin lining and tone-on-tone stitching. It also features a new Dualclasp with two symmetrical blades in yellow or white gold for easy operation of the closing and opening mechanism. Thanks to its carefully designed shape, the Dualclasp always sits centred on the wrist.

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Consisting of two folding, symmetrical blades, the new Dualclasp affords easy operation of the opening and closing mechanism, while guaranteeing secure closure of the alligator leather strap

Inside the watch is the calibre 7140, a movement wholly developed and manufactured by Rolex, unveiled this year. Through the caseback, the iconic Rolex Côtes de Genève – a decoration that differs from traditional Côtes de Genève for the slight polished groove between each band and the openwork oscillating weight in 18 ct yellow gold can be seen.

Calibre 7140 is equipped with a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor, which ensures continuous winding of the mainspring by harnessing the movements of the wrist to provide a constant source of energy.

The new calibre 7140 is a self-winding mechanical movement manufactured by Rolex

The calibre 7140 was created by incorporating a maximum number of Rolex’s existing components, then assembled following an exacting protocol of unparalleled precision. Fitted with the patented Syloxi hairspring, Chronergy escapement and Paraflex shock absorbers, it has a guaranteed power reserve of approximately 66 hours and a high level of chronometric performance (−2/+2 seconds per day).

While the 1908 presents a seductively elegant and delicate dial, it is also Superlative Chronometer certified and waterproof to a depth of 50 metres.

Visit Kee Hing Hung to discover the Rolex 2023 new watches.

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