In case you missed them, here are the highlights of key fashion events this year, from unforgettable shows to exhibitions
Fendi Baguette’s 25th anniversary collection
To celebrate the iconic Baguette Bag reaching its quarter- century milestone, Fendi held a show in New York City where the arm candy appeared across 54 thoughtfully designed looks. Realising this instantly recognisable silhouette in multiple ways, the runway was enlivened by ensembles that embodied the joy and celebration this bag evokes.
“It was a special day when I designed this bag; the stars aligned. The horoscope said it was a Fendi day,” says Silvia Venturini Fendi, artistic director of accessories and menswear. Straddling the line between uptown and downtown, luxury and utility, excess and reality, the Baguette has proved to be inspirational and timeless.
“I didn’t want to do a traditional ‘collection’ for the anniversary. Rather it’s a celebration of a time, of the moment the Baguette became famous. I relate that time to a sense of freedom in excess and fun — both qualities the Baguette possesses,” adds artistic director of womenswear, Kim Jones.
Marc Jacobs also brought 10 looks to life for this show, with exaggerated dimensions and elaborate silhouettes. “I’ve got one word: Fendiroma. And it is one word! It is another land, this Fendiroma...And I’ve got two words: The Baguette. It’s a bag — and I am never one to shy away from an iconic bag,” the designer says.
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The collection presented both hyper-luxe and glossy glamour, playing with silk satin, parka shaved mink and glossy leather, all to best showcase the grand and unforgettable iterations of this bag. Other highlights at this exciting and memorable event included special editions of the Fendi Baguette with Tiffany & Co and Porter.
Action in the Year of the Tiger
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Launched earlier this year, the “Action in the Year of the Tiger” campaign by Prada aimed to raise awareness of the potential extinction of the big cats, with creativity at the forefront. The jury —made up of artists Liu Ye, Lu Yang and Goshka Macuga — were tasked with selecting 20 winning entries from students under the age of 30 from art schools in China and overseas. The participants submitted their own interpretation of the majestic creature.
The winning artists’ works were presented at Prada Rong Zhai in Shanghai from Aug 31 to Sept 18.
“It was a great honour to be invited to sit on the jury for this competition. The zodiac is unique to China, and the tiger is a very cool animal, whether in nature or the zodiac,” says Lu Yang. “The submissions incorporated a wide variety of forms, from hand-drawn works to video art and multimedia interactive installations. It was a very diverse competition.”
In Shanghai the works were digitally presented in the form of a collage of images and videos on large screens that were mounted on modular walls. A clip of the Northeast China Tiger and Leopard National Park were also on display.
The “Action in the Year of the Tiger” campaign does not end there. Future initiatives include a workshop where primary students will visit Prada Rong Zhai to learn about wildlife and biodiversity
in collaboration with Yishan, China’s top-notch platform for children-oriented content; and a Hello Tiger documentary, produced by Prada with GQ China and shot at the Amur Tiger habitat. The latter will feature Prada ambassadors — singer Cai Xu Kun, actress Chunxia as well as table tennis champion Ma Long.
Louis Vuitton’s Aranya show
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Upholding its late artistic director Virgil Abloh’s vision, Louis Vuitton presented its men’s spring/summer2023 (SS23) collection while expanding on the idea of a magnified playground — first brought to life in Paris in June. Held on the beach in Beidaihe, China, it was the first fashion show hosted by a luxury house in the coastal community of Aranya, a destination known for artistic exhibitions, festivals and architecture.
The location was transformed by a 320m toy racetrack that naturally became the runway, with sculptures of the Lonely Library and Community Hall at its centre— all part of the larger-than-life sandscape that reflected a childlike imagination with grown-up refinement. Other elements were a play on playground essentials, from building blocks and cartoon prints to sandbox tools and origami paper planes.
Before the models took to the runway, Mirage was played. The film acts as the transition from Paris (like East meets West). It was by Jia Zhangke and Wei Shujun, who also directed the whole men’s SS23 show. Benji B arranged the score, which included music by Sleeping Dogs, a Beijing-based instrumental band. There were also 10 brand new looks that walked the runway, which further reiterated the show’s themes.
Into the fashion metaverse
This season has finally brought a sense of normalcy to the fashion world, with the return of live runways. However, some creators have found new ways to merge the online world with chic catwalks.
Designer Kim Shui’s latest spring/summer 2023 ready- to-wear-collection is inspired by female warriors, as well as the Chinese Miao garb and celestial dragons. One of her ensembles certainly stands out from the rest, as it uses the internet for a kind of collaboration. Working with financial technology company Afterpay, Kim was able to crowdsource images — about 700 pictures from strangers — to craft a unique Pixel dress.
“Our community has been core to our development as a brand. We were co-created on the internet really and we wanted this season to reflect that. It was through the women wearing our clothes and sharing it with others that we were able to grow, and we wanted to really have them be a part of the show no matter where they are,” she tells Soho House.
The New York-based designer also managed to host a nationwide casting call in order to hire the model, stylist and photographer for her show. “It came from telling the story of how each piece is never really made by one person; everything is made by people coming together, inspired by others around us. You can’t accomplish things alone. I thought this idea of artwork on clothing and multiple contributions as well as ways to credit each person through NFT ownership, was interesting,” she adds.
The ‘Action in the Year of the Tiger’ exhibition showcased works by all 20 of the winning participants