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From petite purses to towering totes, this season's shoulder candies are all extreme

Russell Marino Soh
Russell Marino Soh • 8 min read
From petite purses to towering totes, this season's shoulder candies are all extreme
The latest iteration of Weekend Max Mara's Pasticcino bag presents a vibrant interplay between texture and textile
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If that bag you picked up a few seasons ago is starting to look boring, chances are it is. Realistically, few are ever truly adventurous when it comes to fashion; all too often, those nagging — though usually arbitrary — thoughts about appropriateness and re-wearability hinder us from being bolder about the things we wear and carry. 

Sure, those concerns may be valid for clothing — after all, it’s near impossible to rock a red floor-length gown or gold lamé top every day of the week — but accessories are a whole other story. Statement bags add flair and oomph to an outfit and can easily be repeated on multiple occasions without kicking up too much of a stir from judgmental eyes.

This season’s latest bags are fittingly all about extremes; say goodbye to muted basic shapes in plain neutral hues and hello to a whole gamut of sizes, silhouettes, textures and tones. With countless offerings from brands across the fashion spectrum, there’s no limit to what you can sling on your shoulder or perch on your wrist. Options runs through the hottest bag trends, with our top picks to jazz up your daily wardrobe.

Small minded

It all started when Lizzo stepped onto the red carpet at the 2019 American Music Awards, keeping her accessories to a minimum — literally. Her teeny Valentino top handle nearly broke the internet, setting the stage for a micro-bag trend that, tragically, lasted only until the pandemic reared its ugly head.

But things are finally looking up again for petite purses. Small bags measuring not more than six inches tall are slowly but surely returning onto the runway. 

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With their minute stature, these bags are just roomy enough to fit a phone and a purse, plus a pack of wet wipes and a portable charger for the practical wearer. But what they lack in size, they sure make up for in style; coming in a range of poppy colours, they’re sure to grab attention, all while staying versatile and dainty enough for any event, from high tea with friends to a fancy dinner party.

Among our favourites in this category is the mini edition of Valentino’s VLogo Moon Hobo bag, introduced in the brand’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection. While the design comes in four sizes, the mini is a perfect mix of sleek and cute.

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At just 20cm across and 8cm tall, this Nappa leather creation can be worn two ways — a detachable shoulder strap takes it from a delicate handbag to a crossbody in seconds. Gold hardware with the Maison’s logo makes this piece instantly identifiable; the bright colourways, from peacock green to Valentino red, mean plenty of attention-grabbing options are on the table.

Another exceptionally eensy bag to look out for is Alaïa’s Le Teckel, a design which went viral after it appeared on the shoulders of celebrities from Kylie Jenner to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. The small version of this up-and-coming It bag has a length of just 27cm and a height of 9cm, though the sculptural top handle takes it up several notches.

The Le Teckel, which takes its name from the Dutch word for “dachshund”, is undoubtedly similar to its namesake dog breed. Its slender east-west shape is sausage-like, and the handle is even slightly reminiscent of a leash. But the unique silhouette is just one facet of this bag’s success; its unexpected practicality also translates well into the real world. A double-zipper closure means things can easily be secured within, including a built-in mirror for touch-ups on the go.

Supersize me, softly

On the other end of the spectrum, we have massive bags permeating almost every major runway. These land somewhere between a weekend carryall and a full-on cabin bag, with plenty of room for almost everything you’d need any time you leave the house.

One major difference between the oversized bags of today and those of seasons past — while earlier iterations focused on structure and polish, the latest designs are all about the wilted, worn-in aesthetic. 

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Perhaps the most famous references for this look are Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, with their well-loved Hermès Birkins. Instead of focusing on keeping the prized collectables pristine, they used them as they were designed to be. Straps falling out of their loops, leather with scuffs from daily use, and softening structure overall make the twins’ Birkins the epitome of laissez-faire luxury.

With its mastery of leathercraft, Bottega Veneta excels at creating large bags that tread the line between punchy visual impact and overwhelming heft. The Hop bag, adapted by creative director Matthieu Blazy from archival designs, is emblematic of modern cool with its hobo-style slouchy construction.

Coming in at a width of 54cm and height of 24cm, the large Hop has enough space for staycation essentials, with change to spare. Most variations are in the house’s trademark Intrecciato weave, though the Summer 2024 runway also featured versions in multicoloured leather stripes. Either way, the material elevates the relaxed shape for an understated chill vibe.

Reinvented angles

As edgier fashionistas seek to make their mark in fashion, a new crop of designers is moving away from the once-popular symmetrical structured silhouettes in accessories. A range of new styles featuring skewed lines and unusual angles is now taking centre stage. They’re hot on the market, so be prepared to wait before you get your hands on a piece.

These bags aren’t for the faint of heart — they’re bold, unusual and often lean a little young, with their cheeky take on form. But that doesn’t mean they’re simply a novelty; on the contrary, they retain all the functionalities of more typical designs while adding a layer of eccentricity that will arrest attention.

For those with the nerve to carry one of these pieces, know it will be a conversation starter from the moment you enter any room.

Singaporean brand Aupen recently made headlines after it was reported that H&M and Prada Group, among others, had moved to invest in the label. Its Nirvana bag was most famously carried by Taylor Swift last year when she “hard-launched” her relationship with American footballer Travis Kelce.

Under its braided calfskin handle, the bag’s body is sloped at the top for a novel look that allows it to fit comfortably when worn on one’s shoulder. The flat bottom also means it stands perfectly fine on its own when set down on a table or seat. Gold hardware and a detachable bean-shaped charm add a touch of whimsical elegance.

Of course, with Aupen’s recent social media shutdown and most items on its website going out of stock, some have wondered if the Nirvana bag will be around for much longer. The brand has since clarified, to many a sigh of relief, that it will likely bring its bags back sometime around June.

Another brand that has put out an asymmetrical offering is the art-collective MSCHF. Earlier this year, the label behind 2021’s “Birkinstocks” — sandals made of deconstructed Birkins — released the Global Supply Chain Telephone bag, a mishmash of It bags designed by passing design instructions to four leather-crafting workshops worldwide.

The resulting product blends aspects of the Birkin, Celine Luggage, Dior Saddle and Balenciaga Hourglass. It’s a humorous take on the usually serious world of luxury handbags, but one that works; the bag is naturally quirky but retains all the functions of its constituent designs. A zippered front pocket, additional back pocket and card slot mean plenty of space to store your belongings, even with the unusual silhouette.

The Global Supply Chain Telephone bag is currently out of stock but is set to return sometime this summer, according to MSCHF’s website.

Textures galore

Mirroring the re-emergence of fringe and ruched fabrics in recent womenswear collections, bags that celebrate texture are coming up strong. At the same time, new fabrication methods breathe new life into even the most familiar textiles.

This trend started with raffia’s sudden return to the accessories scene in 2022 and 2023. Woven straw has since cemented its position as the material of choice for bags on sunny days, but it’s not just taking the form of old-school picnic baskets. The focus isn’t so much on its summery qualities but on its distinctive finish.

It should come as no surprise that Loewe — a brand known for its straw bags — would be highlighted here. The house has unveiled a raffia rendition of its Puzzle Fold Tote, a design that debuted in the Autumn/Winter 2023 pre-collection. 

The woven material is placed front and centre here; the pattern becomes ever more apparent as it curves along the cleverly placed geometric lines, allowing it to fold fully flat with a quick tuck. Top handles in black calfskin ground the levity of the bag, making it just chic enough to carry into your next Sunday brunch.

Over at Weekend Max Mara, the Pasticcino bag has received an update. Launched with the brand’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection, the design has been reiterated multiple times through its “world tour”. Inspired by Japanese textiles and kimonos, the most recent version takes the bag’s signature shape and blends it with silk jacquards from Kyoto-based Kawashima Selkon Textiles.

The puffy pouch, named after the Italian word for “small pastry”, could pass for a fabric-clad steamed bun. The fabric gathers as it approaches the frame atop the bag, adding dimension to the intricate Japanese prints for a vibrant interplay between texture and textile.

 

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