Sevan Bıçakçı, who established his eponymous jewellery brand in Istanbul, started from humble beginnings. A Turkish citizen of Armenian origin, Sevan was a curious child who often became “a scapegoat whenever something went wrong in school because he was hyperactive. Today, his condition is recognised as ADHD”, says Emre Dilaver, creative director of the brand.
Sevan was not able to do well in school due to the pressure from his surroundings and decided to stop studying after completing fifth grade. He then thought about about what to do next. For an Armenian boy who grew up poor in Istanbul, there were usually only two career paths: becoming an artisan or a mechanic.
It was not difficult for Sevan to choose between the two as his next-door neighbour, who was his father’s good friend, ran a small goldsmith workshop. A few years later, his master died and Sevan had to decide between opening his own workshop or moving to another, under the guidance of a new master.
Sevan bravely opted for the former and, with the help of a friend, established a business to serve bigger manufacturers as a freelance jewellery designer. But it did not work out and the fledgling business soon went bankrupt. At the time, in 2002, he had been quietly working on his first collection for over a year.
Emre, who was then an international sales representative for a jewellery company, came across Sevan’s creations. “I was blown away by what I saw.” He introduced Sevan to his bosses and they welcomed him on board as a designer, organising exhibitions together to showcase his jewellery. Not long after that, Emre’s employers decided that it was not a good idea as the pieces “were not selling”.
Emre, however, saw the potential in Sevan’s products and skills. He insisted that the brand could go far as there was interest and attention growing outside the Türkish market. He quit his job and went on sabbatical for six months. “When I came back, we decided to start this journey together.”
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It was not an easy beginning for the partners. “We had a tiny workshop with five goldsmiths, myself and two other people working in the office. Although we were surrounded by professionals in the field, their comments were rather discouraging.” Despite the naysayers, the brand persevered through hard times, thanks to support from local media.
Now, the brand attracts upper-class customers and collectors from around the world who are interested in acquiring its one-of-a-kind pieces. Some of its renowned clientele include pop singers Mariah Carey and Celine Dion and fashion designer Tory Burch.
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“Some people of a certain status buy extravagant accessories like an expensive watch or jewellery to show they are making a certain amount of money. There are also those who look for a deeper meaning in what they purchase. That’s where we come into play. This is what we call new luxury. Luxury should be a rarity.”
The essence of Sevan Bıçakçı is storytelling for every creation. While Sevan is in charge of creating and perfecting techniques, Emre is responsible for the storytelling part of it. “Designing pieces always starts with brainstorming. We focus on the stories we want to tell and are inspired by. My role is to make sure every element we produce has a story that can resonate with and be appreciated by people.” He is also in charge of the brand’s social media and website, as well as international exhibitions.
Sevan is dubbed the “star jeweller” in Türkiye, but he is most proud of having the ability to bring forward the ancient tradition of minstrels and artisans. Each work of art is passed from painter, sculptor and goldsmith to engraver, mosaicist and calligrapher to bring every detail to perfection.
The brand uses the reverse intaglio technique for its creations, in which the stone is engraved from the back before it is enamelled to ensure the visual appears in three-dimensional form when seen from the top.
“It is a very risky approach. These are fragile gemstones. Usually, seven out of eight stones get sacrificed to get one good outcome. That’s why our average working time is long for each piece — between two and three months.”
Different kinds of stones such as amethysts, pink quartz, tanzanites, rubies, emeralds and other precious stones and gemstones are incorporated in its designs. Although some of these materials are harder to work with than the rest, the artisans are willing to go the extra mile and take up the challenge “to celebrate a good deal of business”.
From the beginning, Sevan was set to create a jewellery style that represented the spirit of Istanbul. “I’d like all of the natural beauty of Istanbul to be placed within my pieces,” he says. The co-founder have collaborated with painters to produce rings that display the view of the city.
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Each piece is created for their own collection that potential buyers are free to browse and purchase. The brand has made rings, necklaces, bracelets, cufflinks and brooches. Some of these products are unisex but most of them appeal to women.
Besides jewellery, Sevan has also worked on watches. It started with a fascination after visiting an exhibition of timepieces in the Topkapi Palace Collection. He was captivated by the stories of clockmakers in the Ottoman court who devoted their lifetime to making one extraordinary clock. Sevan began to research and study and it took him nine years to complete a glorious 85-piece collection that presents Ottoman traditions, arts and crafts, fused with high-tech Swiss-made movements.
Some of the jewellery he created is not for sale. “People have asked to buy, but Sevan declined, saying, ‘This should belong to my kids, or maybe one day if we have a museum, this will be one of the important pieces to fill the space’,” says Emre.
Sevan Bıçakçı remains a proudly Turkish brand that draws inspiration from Anatolia, Byzantium and the Ottoman Empire. Its precious pieces will continue to honour the beauty and culture of the region, as well as the craftsmanship of the artisans in and beyond the jewellery world. Sounds priceless to us.
