At first glance, the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition immediately arrests attention with swirling patterns on the case. Those amorphous lines complement the barrel-shaped case, for a look that is both distinctive and cohesive.
Mesmerising material
As its name suggests, the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is made with Damascus steel. The high-carbon alloy has been used in some samurai swords, and has regained popularity in recent years — especially in the world of luxury knives — owing to its durability and striated pattern.
Franck Muller has incorporated two steel alloys in the timepiece, to enhance its strength and corrosion resistance. Computer numerical control (CNC) machines have been used to cut the case, skeletonised movement, crown and buckle from single blocks of Damascus steel.
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The banded look is then achieved through a carefully timed process, in which the steel is immersed in an acid bath for just a few minutes, to avoid shrinking or deforming the material. The resulting effect is unique to each timepiece; no two will look the same.
Using Damascus steel wasn’t just a technical or aesthetic choice, either. There’s also an element of symbolism in the material — strong, and with closely interwoven layers — that reflects the ties between Franck Muller and Sincere.
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The retailer was one of the first to integrate Franck Muller into its portfolio; the relationship would quickly evolve and grow, with Sincere becoming Franck Muller’s exclusive Southeast Asia distributor in 1992, just a year after the watchmaker’s establishment. Both parties have continued to collaborate over the years, forging an ever-stronger relationship.
Masterful minutiae
Looking closer at the Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, one starts to appreciate the delicate details that reflect Franck Muller’s technical mastery.
The skeletonised calibre MVT FM 1740-VS2 allows one to view the complex network of bridges, all rendered in Damascus steel. With 175 components, the manually wound movement runs at 2.5Hz and has a seven-day, double-barrel power reserve.
Each component in the calibre MVT FM 1740-VS2 catches the light in a slightly different way, adding layers of texture and shine that change with every viewing angle. This comes by way of a mix of finishes and treatments, from mirror polishing on the regulator assembly to diamond polishing on the sinks and circular satin-brushing on the wheels.
Taken together, these understated yet impactful touches create a watch that is not only impressive from a technical standpoint, but also aesthetically alluring.
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Contrasting against the Damascus steel are the 18-karat rose gold components, seen in the hour, minute and second hands, as well as the flange, side inserts, crown cap and the seconds markers on the white sapphire seconds counter ring at 6 o’clock. The strap, made of black alligator leather, also comes with rose gold stitching and a rose gold “FM” emblem on the Damascus steel buckle.
The entire series of 28 Franck Muller Vanguard Damascus Steel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition timepieces is exclusive to Sincere Fine Watches.
