Attending the Watches and Wonders Geneva press presentation this year felt like being a kid in a candy store as we explored Chopard’s latest creations. Among the various models, we examined the Alpine Eagle, L.U.C and Happy Diamonds collections.
If we had trouble choosing a favourite, imagine the challenge for Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, Chopard’s co-president. Despite the many options, he particularly highlighted the Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT.
Scheufele says: “I think it is one of the highlights of this year’s fair because it shows that the Alpine Eagle is very versatile and can play different roles. This represents a direction that is more contemporary and technical, and in a way, it also indicates that this is another beginning.”
Scheufele adds that while Chopard will continue with the classic Alpine Eagle, which is doing well, there are also the more extravagant versions set with diamonds, featuring a jewellery aspect and a more technical and sporty side. He admits that he is particularly happy about this watch because he insisted on creating it himself and is glad to see how well it has performed.
In the name Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT, the “41” indicates the diameter of the case, while “XP”, which stands for extra-plat or ultra-thin, highlights the slim profile of both the movement and the watch. The “TT” signifies “technical” and “titanium”, both prominently featured in the model’s design. Chopard thus creates a harmonious blend of the mechanical precision of its workshops and the sporty elegance characteristic of the Alpine Eagle collection.
Besides highlighting the collection, Scheufele spoke about balancing traditional techniques with modern designs while emphasising the company’s commitment to sustainability through recycled materials and certifications such as the Fleurier Quality Foundation. This certification comes with a series of exclusive requirements to assure final customers that they are purchasing a watch 100% manufactured in Switzerland, offers reliable precision in all circumstances, has tested reliability and proven durability, and features exclusive aesthetic quality in its finish.
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The other certification indicates that the watches are adorned with Côtes de Genève by the Maison’s artisans and have been certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute after 15 days of testing, which is one of the five criteria required for the Qualité Fleurier certification.
Scheufele says: “We do certify several watches with the Geneva Seal, which we can do because we either produce or assemble the movements in Geneva. I think this certification is still very meaningful, especially regarding finishing the movements and the cases. Recently, they have also added a precision component to the certification.”
As for the Fleurier certification, he says that it is something he wanted to continue, even though his initial founding partners pulled out about two years ago. He adds: “We decided to get organised, ensuring we have the necessary equipment in-house in Fleurier while collaborating with outside experts. This is a bit personal for me as well; I was involved in the initial foundation of this organisation 20 years ago and I didn’t want to let it die as it would have been a shame.”
Scheufele shares these insights and more with Options, discussing topics like craftsmanship and design and even comparing aspects of watchmaking to racing cars. As an avid race car driver who has participated in every 1000 Miglia since 1987, Scheufele brings a unique perspective to the conversation.
How does Chopard balance traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design trends?
I think the philosophy remains the same. It’s like driving; when you drive responsibly, you look in the mirror and behind you as you move forward.
This means that you advance with contemporary design while also looking back to respect tradition and traditional craftsmanship. Driving only forward without looking back is not a safe way to go and it’s not the right approach. We strive to respect craftsmanship and apply it wherever we can, combining it with new techniques and materials to optimise everything as we progress.
We have also recently expanded our craftsmanship scope within the company by establishing a dedicated workshop in Geneva for engraving and other techniques, in addition to the one in Fleurier, where we do enamelling, for example. We are also enhancing the handmade decoration of movements, which is probably the pinnacle of decoration and craftsmanship in this tradition.
Can you discuss the significance of partnerships, such as the Mille Miglia race, to Chopard’s brand identity?
Many years ago, I noted that owners of classic cars usually also appreciate mechanical watches. Based on this idea, we got involved with Mille Miglia because they represent two intersecting worlds; it’s about precision and competing with precision instruments.
It’s about mechanics, as vintage and classic cars generally do not feature anything electronic. All these elements converge.
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From the early days, I was convinced that being a partner in such an important event in the car world, which is also almost a cultural event, is a very good fit for us. Additionally, I have a personal passion for this, so it really is the best of all worlds.
What are some of the challenges you’ve faced in maintaining Chopard’s reputation for luxury and innovation in a competitive market?
I think the challenges today mainly lie in finding craftsmen, teaching young people, and making them interested in joining our company or the industry as a whole and not just us.
On one hand, a younger crowd of collectors is entering the market, which is great, as there is more interest in mechanical watches than ever before.
On the other hand, I would say that there aren’t enough young people wanting to pursue this profession, largely due to the influence of electronic media. They often lack the determination and patience required because everything is fast-paced and transient.
In watchmaking, you need to step back and concentrate on a small area — often just 5 sq cm or 10 sq cm — throughout the day. You have to be willing to immerse yourself in this bubble and enjoy it, and that is a challenge.
How do you approach the design process for new L.U.C collections at Chopard?
The design process usually starts with ideas being tossed around and then focuses more on one or two main subjects. We create multiple designs before we even decide to make a prototype.
I think the key element you can see this year, or over the past two years more than ever, is the dial. This is an obvious conclusion — one not just from me but a general knowledge in the watch industry: the dial is the face of the watch.
It gives the watch its character and also transmits the DNA of the collection. This is where the design process begins for me. In watch design, especially when it comes to the simplest-looking designs, those are often the most complicated to perfect.
It’s all about details, details, details. Sometimes, I find myself asking: “Can we make this millimetre shorter or longer?” They [the watchmakers] look at me as if to say: “What is he thinking?” But it’s all about the details, and proportions — when we are talking about very small objects — can make a huge difference.
What inspired the development of Lucent Steel?
Lucent Steel started with the Alpine Eagle collection. Two or three years before the launch of the Alpine collection, we began discussing the idea with a manufacturer in Austria because we wanted to expand our journey toward sustainability in a meaningful way. So we asked: “Couldn’t we source high-quality steel with a significant degree of recycled material?”
We found this supplier and, together with them, developed a steel that allows for the production of high-quality objects, such as our steel watches. As they worked on the project, the added value emerged; because they had to heat the furnace twice, the steel material became more condensed, making it harder and shinier.
In the end, the idea of using recycled materials evolved into an upcycling process, as Lucent steel is essentially upcycled material. Initially, we didn’t expect that we would achieve such a result; we merely wanted the equivalent of the steel we were already using.
However, we ended up with a better material than before. Unfortunately, we were restricted in the quantities we could obtain, which is why only the Alpine Eagle was initially made from this steel. Last year, we were finally able to announce that all steel pieces would be made this way.
Pride of Chopard
Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT (Tech Titanium)
This watch houses the ultra-thin L.U.C Calibre 96.17-S, which combines technical sophistication with aesthetic qualities. It highlights an off-centre micro-rotor made of 22-carat gold. Its high inertia ensures the efficient winding of two barrels. Stacked according to Chopard Twin technology, these barrels store the energy required for a total power reserve of 65 hours.
One of the eye-catching features is that this watch has no dial, allowing us to view the inner workings in all their glory. The main plate and bridges are open-worked in a manner that follows the curves of the case opening, creating concentric spaces around the movement’s centre and providing an opportunity to admire the components in action. This approach is a signature Chopard touch that reflects the Maison’s desire to adopt a method distinct from traditional openworking techniques.
The Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT features a diameter of 41mm and a case thickness of 8mm. Compared to the classic Alpine Eagle 41 model, the flanks and bezel have been trimmed, allowing for a wider opening onto the dial. These beautifully balanced proportions, which Chopard reserves for its exceptional models, lend the timepiece an aura of graceful elegance. The Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT also stays true to the aesthetics of the collection, drawing inspiration from the power of nature and embodying Chopard’s visionary spirit.
Exclusively crafted from grade-five titanium, an alloy of aluminium and vanadium, the Alpine Eagle 41 XP TT offers remarkable resistance to corrosion and saltwater. From steep mountain peaks to the depths of the sea, this watch is the ultimate companion for extreme sports enthusiasts.
L.U.C Qualité Fleurier
nside this watch sits the L.U.C 96.09-L movement, which is an evolved version of Chopard Manufacture’s first calibre. This ultra-thin mechanism measuring just 3.30mm thick is equipped with Chopard Twin technology, featuring two stacked barrels wound by a bidirectional micro-rotor in 22K gold. This technology endows the watch with a comfortable 65-hour power reserve.
This self-winding movement is adorned with the Côtes de Genève by the Maison’s artisans. After 15 days of testing, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute certified it, one of the five criteria required by Qualité Fleurier certification.
In addition, the comprehensive Qualité Fleurier testing suite assesses the quality, shock resistance and precision of watches manufactured in Switzerland. Beyond the precision of the Chronometer movement, the overall reliability of the watch is verified through the Chronofiable protocol, which involves three weeks of ageing tests under varying conditions, including exposure to heat, cold, and humidity.
A second phase of precision testing is conducted on the fully cased watch using the Fleuritest simulator. This machine, specifically designed to obtain the “FQF Haute Horlogerie quality certification”, accurately replicates the conditions under which the watch is worn for 24 hours, alternating between calm and active activities, including intense physical exertion (such as during sports). To qualify for the Qualité Fleurier certificate, the rate variation of each assembled timepiece must be maintained within a range of zero to 5 secs per day.
Happy Sport
This collection never fails to put a smile on our faces as we watch the diamonds dance and move according to our energy. This year, these dancing diamonds are joined by new coloured stones; aquamarines float against a silver-toned background with a finely guilloché centre, while the dial is adorned with hands and hour markers in matching tones, further echoed by the aquamarine set in the crown and the glossy alligator leather strap.
Equipped with a 42-hour power reserve, this timepiece beats to the rhythm of a calibre entirely developed, produced, and assembled in the Maison’s watchmaking workshops. Its precision makes it the ideal ally for women with fast-paced lifestyles who treasure every minute as a precious moment. A perfect example of horological performance and jewellery design equally mastered by the Manufacture, the Happy Sport showcases its artisans’ virtuosity.
As part of its Journey toward Sustainable Luxury, Chopard has chosen to enhance the whirl of dancing diamonds by crafting the Happy Sport case from its exclusive Lucent Steel™. This alloy, manufactured from at least 80% recycled material, features properties comparable to surgical steel, making it brighter, stronger, and more comfortable to wear than its standard counterpart. Since 2023, Chopard has been using Lucent Steel™ for the production of all its steel timepieces.
