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Faces to watch: New watch novelties hot off the factories of Switzerland

Jasmine Alimin
Jasmine Alimin • 6 min read
Faces to watch: New watch novelties hot off the factories of Switzerland
From cool chronographs to elegant dress watches, here’s a round-up of new timepieces hot off the factories of Switzerland
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Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton

The latest Captain Cook exudes an air of mystery with a new skeleton (or see-through) design that showcases its latest R808 movement. It allows the user to admire the cool geometry and complex architecture of the watch’s multi-toned components and movement.

Special finishing touches include a new, horizontally-brushed platine and a rose-gold-coloured minute-wheel bridge, boldly visible inside the wider dial window, alongside the many chromatic contrasts. The movement, equipped with an anti-magnetic Nivachron hairspring, has been fully tested in five positions, and provides up to 80 hours of power reserve.

Rado reaffirms its position as definitive Master of Materials with a 43mm plasma high-tech ceramic case, sublimated in a fiery environment where plasma temperatures reach roughly four times those found on the sun's surface. It sports a rugged deep anthracite (almost gun metal) shade on the case and two-tone ceramic bracelet, completed by a sleek matte sheen all over. To give the timepiece more dimension, it is further punctuated with Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD)-coated rose gold detailing on the rotatable bezel, crown and dial circumference.

The box-shaped sapphire crystal, with anti-reflective coating on both sides, has a lightly smoked tint in harmony with the somewhat mysterious feel of the watch. The dial is intentionally spartan, with simple geometric indices and hour, minute and second hands, treated where applicable with Super-LumiNova. The trademark Rado moving-anchor symbol features a smart, tasteful deep-red background colour along with the customary logo, name and water-resistance depth indications.

See also: Defying traditions

Adding to its play on material contrasts, this High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton model also uses titanium on the case back to securely hold down the sapphire crystal at the back, while the bracelet also has a titanium triple-fold buckle and Ceramos push-buttons.

Longines Spirit Flyback

See also: Testing QA Urban luxury

The new Longines Spirit Flyback exemplifies the pioneering spirit that has driven the watchmaking brand since its earliest days, and is a fitting celebration of adventurers both past and present.

It has now been extended to include a chronograph watch with flyback function, a complication that was first introduced in 1925. The particular advantage of flyback is that it gives pilots a practical and fast way of successively timing different flight stages, thus facilitating navigation. The simple press of a pusher instantly resets the chronograph’s direct-drive second hand, which immediately restarts timing from zero. A single press enables three operations (stop, reset and restart), in contrast to conventional chronographs, which require the stop and reset functions to be activated before restarting the timing function.

Driving the 42mm timepiece is a new exclusive Longines calibre, resistant to magnetism and equipped with a silicon balance spring. Extremely precise, with a power reserve of 68 hours, this movement is certified as a chronometer by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres). A transparent case back reveals all the details of the movement, including a personalised weight engraved with the globe representing the Longines Spirit collection and the name Longines Flyback.

This watch is also distinguished by its refined aesthetics and meticulous finishes, which range between satin, matt, polished and engraved details. The black or blue sunray dial is beautifully contrasted with bronze indices coated with Super-LumiNova. It features a bi-directional bezel enhanced by a coloured ceramic insert with luminescent markers.

The Longines Spirit Flyback comes in a choice of five interchangeable straps — stainless steel bracelet, brown leather, blue fabric or beige Nato — equipped with a folding clasp fitted with a new micro-adjustment system for maximum comfort and a perfect fit.

Omega Aqua Terra

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Swiss watchmaker Omega introduced the original Aqua Terra family in 2002 to honour the brand’s rich ocean heritage and the spirit of the iconic Seamaster watches, which were known for their reliability both in water (Aqua) and on land (Terra). The collection marries style with performance establishing itself as one of the most distinctive and popular timepiece choices.

This year, the new Aqua Terra Shades collection launches 10 new novelties in a bold array of dial shades that follow the spectrum from ocean to earth, encompassing unique tones such as Atlantic Blue, Lagoon Green and Terracotta. Two different sizes are available in polished stainless steel cases, either in 38 mm or 34 mm, all powered by Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 high-powered movement.

Within the Shades collection, the dials are crafted from brass and then sun-brushed outwards from the centre, and given a layer of lacquer for extra depth. To achieve the unique hues, PVD technology is applied to achieve a particular effect that enables colours such as Terracotta, while CVD (Chemical Vapour Deposition) technology achieves certain chemical reactions, perfect for shades such as Sea Blue.

In the 34mm range, the dials feature 18K white gold for the hands and the indexes, which are shaped like sailboat hulls. For the 38mm models, Omega has graced the dials with traditional rhodium-plated hands and indexes. Keeping in line with the Aqua Terra DNA, each watch features a symmetrical case and crown in fully polished stainless steel, with a wave-edged design on the back.

For an extra touch of luxury, there are also two 18K gold models crafted in the brand’s long-lasting alloys. The dazzling 38mm model is set in 18K Sedna Gold – a high-resistance red gold alloy made in-house — with a bezel that is paved with 46 diamonds. The dial is presented in a sandstone colour with a matching 18K Sedna Gold bracelet. The 34mm variant is 18K Moonshine Gold – also made in-house — featuring a dial in lagoon green and leather strap in pine green.

Tissot PRX

Since the relaunch of Tissot’s PRX watch in 2021, the retro 70s design of the timepiece has become a commercial success for the brand. The slender silhouette and distinctive tapered 40mm case makes this a highly wearable and timeless piece of design, adding that edge of coolness to any look.

This year, the predominantly quartz collection, just like the 1978 original, is being dressed up in new dial colours with the addition of new strap materials.

One to look out for is the highly-anticipated ice blue dial with an integrated satin-finish steel bracelet, and automatic movement powered by PRX Powermatic 80 which boasts an 80-hour power reserve. It keeps the same slight tonneau shape and slim bezel, while retaining its signature waffle-like chequered pattern dial. This model is joined by black-dial and blue-dial versions, both with black rubber straps.

Another unique addition, which we think will fly off the shelves, is an off-white quartz model with a full Super-LumiNova dial for full visibility in the dark.

For sporty watch users, the PRX Automatic Chronograph remains a popular choice. This 42mm satin-finished steel watch follows the PRX’s sleek angular form, built with a “panda” dial of blue counters, and brushed silver background. It is powered by a Swiss-made Valjoux A05 H31 calibre, which offers an extended 60-hour power reserve. You can view the skeleton oscillating mass from the open caseback secured by sapphire glass.

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