From March 27 to April 2, 48 esteemed watch Maisons gathered at the Palexpo in Geneva for Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023, where both the media and the public had the opportunity to immerse themselves in everything horology. This highly-regarded watch fair exceeded the organisers' expectations, offering a truly immersive experience.
The event achieved record-breaking figures, with 43,000 unique visitors (compared to 22,000 in 2022) throughout the week, 5,400 retailers, 125 nationalities, and 35,000 overnight stays. Notably, the number of end-consumers doubled during the first five days of the event.
Social media engagement surpassed all expectations, with 1.8 million posts featuring the hashtag #watchesandwonders and an estimated reach of over 600 million people — the highest number ever achieved.
All 12,000 tickets were sold out before the weekend, proving that Watches and Wonders remains an attractive destination for the younger generation. Some 25% of the tickets sold were purchased by individuals under 25, with an average ticket-holder age of 35.
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Here, we highlight some of the remarkable timepieces showcased at the event.
A. Lange & Söhne
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The Odysseus Chronograph represents a ground-breaking achievement for the German luxury watchmaker, as it is their first self-winding chronograph created on the success of the original Odysseus, which made its debut four years ago. With the development of an individual movement, the L155.1 Datomatic calibre, a fusion of the words "date" and "automatic," A. Lange & Söhne redefined the category of sporty-elegant watches.
Designing and building a chronograph calibre is considered one of the toughest to do as the watchmaker is required to retain the distinctive dial design of the Odysseus. To do this, the manufactory developed a customised movement that positions both chronograph hands in the centre, the minute counter with a lozenge-shaped or diamond-shaped tip, and the red chrono seconds hand. The small dials that keep track of time can be moved to different positions to make the date and day of the week easier to read. Typically, these dials are located at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions on the watch face.
Introducing an extended measuring range from 30 to 60 minutes opened up new possibilities for the Odysseus Chronograph. The developers have implemented an innovative reset-to-zero function that adds dynamism to the watch's functionality. When the reset-to-zero button at 4 o'clock is pressed after a timing event, the red chrono seconds hand instantly moves to cover the entire distance travelled previously within a fraction of a second while the minute counter jumps back to its starting position in the traditional manner.
In cases where the minute counter has yet to reach the 30-minute mark, both hands move anti-clockwise. However, if the minute counter has surpassed the 30-minute mark, both hands advance clockwise to zero. At high speeds, the chrono seconds hand completes a full revolution for each minute required to reach the full hour.
The watch is limited to 100 pieces and is equipped with a dial designed to create an illusion of depth, similar to the previous Odysseus models. The inner surface of the black main dial has a textured surface, the notched baton appliques are made of white gold, and the subsidiary seconds scale is underlaid with concentric circles.
A palladium-coloured flange with a printed two-part minute scale frames the dial. The scale for the fractions of a second is positioned on the outer circumference, while the scale for minutes and seconds is arranged further inside. Printed in red, the number 60 at 12 o’clock and the red chrono seconds hand accentuate the equally elegant and dynamic appearance of the Odysseus Chronograph.
This attractive wristwatch features a 42.5-millimetre three-part stainless steel case that can withstand a test pressure of 12 bar, making it durable enough to be worn during sports and other leisure activities.
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Bell & Ross
We witnessed three new novelties launched by Bell &Ross at Watches and Wonders 2023: BR 03-93 GMT Blue, BR 03-92 Diver White Bronze, and BR 05 Green Gold. The GMT Blue is the perfect timepiece for the busy traveller, featuring dual time zone reading. The BR 03-93 GMT model has been updated and redesigned in 2021 to accentuate the functional nature of the watch. Its contemporary aesthetic pays particular attention to the readability of the time zones.
Telling the time in the dark is ensured by an SLN White 10 X1 coating with green emission, the most effective luminescent colour. We love the sky blue shade that matches the blue Nappa Soft calf leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching, the blue shade coating the steel bezel is harmoniously reflected in the sunburst dial.
The second watch that stood out is the BR 05 Green Gold which has its design inspired by the iconic BR 03. This iteration features an integrated case and bracelet, resulting in a clean, stylish design with an edgy feel. That is why it is made for urban explorers or the man-about-town.
The polished edges of the case bring out its contours. The sapphire crystal case back reveals the beating heart of the automatic BR-CAL.321 mechanism, with an oscillating weight adorned in gold. This precious, radiant metal works perfectly with the luminous dressy green dial.
Why green? The colour is said to mean victory and also a nod to the colour of the spruce tree. The painted metal plate that serves as the base of the dial has a sunburst effect, changing colour when tilted. Depending on the reflections hitting its surface, it varies between an almost fluorescent shade to dark bottle green. The depth of this unique colour is obtained thanks to the numerous coats of tinted green varnish.
The integrated bracelet is designed entirely in satin-brushed gold. Only the small links have a polished finish. A second alligator-leather strap is available in a classic style that pairs well with this elegant timepiece.
Cartier
One of the most prolific maison did not disappoint with its vast array of novelties displayed in front of us. Tray after tray brought out for us to see up close garnered reactions filled with positive adjectives. The full collection includes the new Tank Normale, Tank Américaine, Pasha, Baignoire, Panthère, Santos de Cartier and the Clash [Un]limited.
While we would love to report on every single timepiece, we had to make some choices and here are two that made an impact: The Cartier Tank Normale, which is the original design of the Cartier Tank in 1917, makes a comeback with an hour and minute version that borrows the proportions and bevelled sapphire crystal of the original.
Available in yellow gold on a brown alligator strap and platinum on a black alligator strap. In addition, this model is supplied on a yellow gold bracelet or a platinum bracelet, with satin and polished finishes evoking a very 1970s spirit.
The watch's skeleton movement includes a 24-hour complication marked by the sun and crescent moon. The hour hand moves around the dial in 24 hours instead of 12, while the minute hand moves in one hour. The upper dial shows daytime hours, while the lower dial displays night-time hours. The skeletonised bridges are coated with shades to symbolise the transition from day to night.
A limited edition of 50 numbered watches, this skeletonised Tank comes in yellow gold on a brown and green alligator strap with a blue sapphire cabochon on the winding crown and platinum on a burgundy, grey alligator strap with a ruby cabochon. A version set with brilliant-cut diamonds completes the ensemble in a limited edition of 20 numbered pieces, featuring an alligator strap in two shades of blue with a brilliant-cut diamond on the winding crown.
Cartier, renowned for its exquisite jewellery collection, impressed us again with the Clash [Un]limited watch. The collection pays tribute to the legacy of Jeanne Toussaint, who was the director of Cartier’s luxury jewellery department, and she is known for her unusual combination of precious stones and the industrial appeal of ball bearings. A natural link between the past and present, as seen in this Clash [Un]limited watch, also uses chromatic contrasts to emphasise the geometric motifs.
How? Firstly, it was entirely developed for Cartier by alternating brushed and satin-finish gold, then combining yellow or rose gold with a new shade of gold in tones of shimmering violet. It punctuates the watch, from the clou carré to the beads on the bracelet.
Chopard
At Watches and Wonders, the auditorium was packed with media eagerly waiting for the arrival of Chopard's global ambassador, Julia Roberts. Co-presidents Caroline and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele joined the Hollywood star in announcing the manufacturer’s commitment to using 80% recycled steel in all its steel watches.
On Roberts’ wrist was the new Happy Sport, a reinvented 25mm diameter case in lucent steel or lucent steel and ethical gold. It is a timepiece for women with a new-sized iteration of the manufacturer's iconic watch that comes in seven variations featuring a choice of materials, colours and straps. The watch strap wraps comfortably around the wrist, and with each movement, the diamonds shimmer and dance as if giving the wearer a private performance.
The gem-set bezel features an iridescent blue alligator leather strap for added elegance. Alternatively, the versions with a polished bezel and either a silver-toned or blue dial are complemented by a double tour midnight blue calfskin strap, while the version with a polished bezel and a pink dial boasts a purple strap and the green dial version has a green strap.
Along with the Happy Sport, Chopard also launched an amazing jewellery watch collection. Be enthralled with the first white gold model entirely set with diamonds in a round, pear-shaped arrangement studded with emeralds. The vibrant green emerald is a unique yet fragile gem requiring extremely careful handling that the manufacturer’s master jewellers have chosen to highlight in this watch. Surrounding the dial sits 12 pear-shaped diamonds that come together to form a generous rosette.
Grand Seiko
Tentagraph is a new addition to Grand Seiko's range of sports watches. The name comes from the watch's features: Ten (10 beats per second) T (Three days) A (automatic) Graph (Chronograph). With the debut of this timepiece, Grand Seiko adds a new dimension to its range of sports watches. The watch beats with a new movement that features the revolutionary Dual Impulse Escapement, which transfers energy to the free-sprung balance wheel indirectly through the pallet fork and directly from the escape wheel.
This modern chronograph has a vertical clutch and a column wheel to ensure high accuracy. With the vertical clutch mechanism, the hands of the chronograph move seamlessly without any glitches, resulting in improved measurement accuracy. Additionally, the column wheel system provides precise control over the chronograph operation, further enhancing its functionality. The movement incorporates a three-pointed hammer, ensuring that when the reset pusher is pressed, the hands return to zero instantly and perfectly synchronised.
The case and bracelet are made of high-intensity titanium, which is about 30% lighter and more scratch resistant than stainless steel to maximise durability, and the two convex pushers ensure the operability required for measuring elapsed time at the highest level.
One of the new timepieces launched at Watches and Wonders is the Grand Seiko manual-winding Spring Drive, which comes with a fully engraved Platinum 950 case. The silver-coloured dial and case are designed to showcase the natural beauty of the forest.
In the eastern part of Shinshu, at the foot of the North Yatsugatake Mountains, lies an expansive forest of white birch trees. Nearby, in Shiojiri, skilled craftsmen and women produce handmade Grand Seiko watches, drawing inspiration from the local scenery and changing seasons.
The dial features the celebrated Shinshu white birch pattern familiar to Grand Seiko fans, yet this masterpiece’s dial has a slightly different tone and a more metallic texture, causing it to shine subtly under the light.
The hour and minute hands, as well as each hand-applied diamond-cut marker, are made of 14k white gold to ensure a sharp and brilliant finish, while the minute track, the lettering and the mark at six o’clock are all carved into the dial. The second hand is tempered to a beautiful shade of grey.
Hermès
The private room at Hermès during Watches and Wonders was a feast for the eyes with a colourful display of the Hermès H08 watch collection. Launched in 2021, these watches boast a contemporary design that combines various shapes and materials. The new addition to the collection is the Hermès H08 Chronograph, which is crafted from a block of multilayered composite material. The cushion-shaped case not only looks sleek but also offers durability and lightness for everyday wear.
The satin-finished and polished titanium bezel has a textured case middle, while the black PVD-coated crown incorporates an orange-rimmed monopusher at 3 o’clock. Instead of the usual three or two pushers found on a chronograph, this timepiece is fitted with an intuitive single button to activate the chronograph’s start, stop and reset functions with a succession of presses.
The watch is powered by a Hermès H1837 mechanical self-winding movement and a chronograph module. This model is paired with an orange rubber strap featuring a structure reminiscent of Hermès signature weaving technique.
A watch from 1991 that inspired a new creation is the Cape Cod watch which was transformed into reality from the pencil strokes of Henri d’Origny. The designer had intended it to be a square watch but as with all good designs, changes are bound to happen and it became a square in a rectangle. The original case is composed of two “anchor chain” half-links, a design that is reminiscent of a boat chain, which has become a brand-style signature.
The Cape Cod watch finds its way through the years with a light-hearted attitude, freely and joyfully undergoing successive transformations. Two new feminine gem set or non-set models interpret the double chain on a graphic dial in shades of Glycine or blue. The intertwined links stand out against a background of stamped horizontal lines, all coated in tinted lacquer and swept over by fine baton-type hands. Crafted in the Hermès Horloger workshops, an alligator or calfskin strap accentuates the soft dusty shades of these contemporary and elegant creations.
Hublot
The brushed titanium of the 44 mm MP-13 watch is undeniably attractive, drawing a lot of compliments when it was revealed to the press. It features two complications — the tourbillon and the retrograde display — in a single watch, making it even more impressive. What sets this watch apart is the tourbillon's double-axis feature, an incredible feat that only a few watchmakers can achieve. Hublot is one of them, having pioneered the manufacture of double-axis tourbillons in-house with their MP-09 watch in 2017.
The tourbillon completes a full rotation every minute on one axis, and every 30 seconds on the other. Having two speeds within the same mechanism creates a view that is both hypnotic and technical. Hublot took it a step further and made it skeletonised and suspended. This gives the tourbillon a weightlessness as it does away with the upper bridge and each component is pared back to allow light to pass through unobstructed. To amplify the visual effect, the space surrounding the 6 o’clock tourbillon has been opened up and is protected on both sides by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal. The finish is flawless and smooth to the touch.
With a power reserve of at least four days or 96 hours, it is considered to have the largest power reserve of any double-axis skeleton tourbillon on the market currently. And, yet, guaranteeing these four days of power has its challenges. The movement it powers is similarly not just retrograde, but bi-retrograde. These three variables (double-axis, bi-retrograde, four days of power) are typically never seen together as retrograde displays are energy-intensive. And a bi-retrograde variant, by definition, even more so. Another feature of this unique timepiece is that while the minute hand moves steadily, the hour hand skips instantly from one hour to the next, optimising the daily experience for the wearer by making the dial easier to read.
IWC
Avid watch fans will know Genta as the talented Swiss watch designer known for creating iconic watch designs that are still revered in the industry today. Throughout his career, Genta designed timepieces such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, IWC Ingenieur SL and Omega Constellation.
Taking his bold and unique aesthetic designs, IWC Schaffhausen introduces the Ingenieur Automatic 40 at the Watches and Wonders. With three new references:
● Ingenieur Automatic 40, Ref. IW328901: Stainless steel case, black dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, integrated stainless steel bracelet with butterfly folding clasp
● Ingenieur Automatic 40, Ref. IW328902: Stainless steel case, silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, integrated stainless steel bracelet with butterfly folding clasp
● Ingenieur Automatic 40, Ref. IW328903: Stainless steel case, aqua dial, rhodium-plated hands and appliques, integrated stainless steel bracelet with polished centre links and butterfly folding clasp
The watches are powered by the IWC-manufactured 32111 calibre with an automatic pawl winding system and a power reserve of 120 hours. In keeping with the tradition of the Ingenieur, a soft-iron inner case efficiently protects the movement from the effects of magnetic fields on its accuracy. The case is water-resistant to 10 bar, making the Ingenieur Automatic 40 a versatile sports watch.
The model's latest iteration boasts several notable updates, one of which is the addition of functional, polygonal screws on the bezel. These screws serve a technical purpose, securing the bezel to the case, and are always positioned in the same place. The bezel's design is striking and contributes to the overall sculptural look of the watch.
The watch's dial features a unique "Grid" structure, balancing the technical and highly sculptural case design. The Grid pattern consists of small lines arranged at 90-degree angles to one another, and it is stamped into a soft iron blank before being galvanised. To enhance legibility appliques with luminescence are added to the dial, ensuring easy reading even in poor lighting conditions.
Other tweaks include a newly engineered middle-link attachment that enhances the ergonomics and provides an even better fit on the wrist. The curved casing ring further improves the ergonomics of the case.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was born to protect a watch from the rigours of polo playing by the British stationed in India in 1931. To protect the watch from a wayward ball, the creators developed a watch with the case facing inward, protecting the crystal, and then flipped over to show the time when needed.
Over the years, Jaeger-LeCoultre has produced many variations of the Reverso watch, including models with additional complications like a second-time zone or a chronograph. The watch has also been customised with decorative dials and precious gemstones. Despite the many variations, the basic design of the Reverso has remained largely unchanged, and it remains a symbol of elegance and sophistication in the world of luxury watches.
The latest addition to the Jaeger-LeCoultre family is the Reverso One Precious Colours, a stunning timepiece that pays homage to the Art Deco movement. The watch features a richly decorated case that is a direct nod to the style's emphasis on bold colours, geometric shapes, and symmetrical design. The Art Deco style often incorporates luxurious materials and finishes such as chrome, glass, and gold, showcased in the watch's exquisite detailing.
What caught our attention in this watch is how the talented artisans of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house Métiers Rares atelier have translated the Reverso One Precious Colours into a dazzling pattern that covers the entire case back and wraps seamlessly around the case sides to frame the dial.
The Reverso One Precious Colours is a stunning timepiece with the front dial facing outwards; the watch features a white mother-of-pearl dial that contrasts the vivid enamelled frame and sparkling diamond-set gadroons and lugs. Gadroons are small, often curved or scalloped, often found on the lugs or bezels of luxury timepieces, and are often diamond-set or made of precious metals to add an extra touch of luxury. The dial features narrow gold brackets in each corner, applied numerals, and Dauphine's hands, iconic features of all Reverso One jewellery models. The watch is fastened to the wrist with a shiny alligator strap that is colour-matched to the case decoration, adding to the overall aesthetic of the piece.
