Every year, IWC Schaffhausen spotlights a particular pillar on which they focus their time and efforts. In recent years, they have highlighted the Pilot’s Watch, the Portugieser and, before that, the Portofinos and Da Vincis. This year, the IWC Ingenieur takes centre stage, with the IWC Ingenieur 40. This timepiece was inspired by Gérald Genta’s Ingenieur SL, Reference 1832, which was launched in 1976.
To provide us with insight into the collection is Christian Knoop, a trailblazer when it comes to defining the future of the IWC brand. Knoop plays a pivotal role in his pursuit of crafting state-of-the-art timepieces that set industry standards. The chief design officer says: “It was an open secret in the watch industry that we were contemplating bringing back the Ingenieur design from Gérald Genta. IWC aficionados had been speculating about this comeback for years. However, it was out of the question for us to simply issue a remake of Genta’s Ingenieur SL.”
To accomplish this, Reference 1832 was selected as the foundation for engineering a new automatic model with perfect case proportions, ergonomics, a high level of detail and finishing, and equipped with modern technology. When IWC embarked on this project, Knoop admitted that they had no idea of the time and effort it would require. In hindsight, he states that this was likely the most complex and challenging engineering and development project he has ever undertaken during his years at IWC.
He adds: “The number of prototypes we created, for example, is mind-blowing. We aimed to create an absolutely perfect watch, down to the smallest detail. So, quite naturally, it took us longer than expected. Only this year did we feel ready to present our work to the public. Judging from the reactions of our clients, including the positive feedback we received from Evelyne Genta, Gérald Genta’s widow, I believe the Ingenieur Automatic 40 lives up to expectations and doesn’t disappoint.”
Renowned watch designer Gérald Genta crafted the Ingenieur SL for IWC Schaffhausen in the 1970s. Now, the Swiss luxury watch manufacturer has refined his iconic design to create a contemporary interpretation. The Ingenieur Automatic 40, however, not only pays homage to the original’s bold aesthetic cues and unique character; it also matches the standards in terms of ergonomics, finishing, and technology.
German-born Knoop, who unearthed his passion for watches at the young age of eight when he received his very first wristwatch, provides Options with a deeper understanding of the IWC timepiece universe.
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How significant is the launch of the Ingenieur Automatic 40?
It is a highly significant launch for us. First, with the new Ingenieur Automatic 40, the steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet returns to our portfolio. So, we are complementing our offering with a product category that enjoys high demand. Second, we are bringing back the unmistakable design that Gérald Genta created in the 1970s. With its bold aesthetic codes, such as the screw-on bezel with five recesses, the structured dial and the integrated H-link bracelet, the Ingenieur SL was a rule-breaker back then. These codes gave the watch its distinctive character and made it instantly recognisable. After briefly returning to the Ingenieur design from the 1950s, bringing back the Genta-inspired design is very significant.
IWC has several collections, each with different identities, so what message do you want to put across with the Ingenieur?
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More than any other watch, the Ingenieur embodies IWC’s engineering spirit and our brand’s strictly technical and design-oriented approach. The Ingenieur was first launched in the 1950s. In this era, people were fascinated by technology, and engineering embodied innovation, progress and prosperity. his sense of optimism and belief in technical progress was also expressed in the name “Ingenieur” — the French word for “engineer” — and still forms an important part of the Ingenieur’s DNA today. In connection with Gérald Genta’s redesign from the 1970s, there is also a link to industrial design with a progressive and technical character, as expressed by designers like Dieter Rams. To hint at this era in German industrial design, we have chosen the motto of “Form und Technik” — German for “form and technology” — to present the Ingenieur at Watches and Wonders.
What was the biggest challenge you faced while working on the new IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40?
To achieve perfection in wearability, ergonomics and finishing presented an enormous challenge. We wanted to produce a perfectly proportioned 40mm case to ensure the watch fits snugly on the wrist. Over the years, we made countless prototypes, continually checking how they wear and improving the case proportions. The Ingenieur SL had a relatively wide bracelet and nose-shaped horns that increased the length of the case. For the Ingenieur Automatic 40, we developed a new middle-link attachment, which provides a better fit on the wrist. We also spent a lot of time perfecting the finishing. Manufacturing techniques have made huge strides since the 1970s, and we wanted to take full advantage of today’s possibilities. The Ingenieur Automatic 40 has an astonishingly high level of detail and outstanding quality in the processing and finishing — evidenced, among other things, by the combination of polished and satin-finished surfaces for the case, the bezel and the bracelet.
Can you take us through the design process from drawings to the final product?
Every development project starts with an idea, followed by the first sketch, a drawing, or a rendering. Watch design, in general, has changed fundamentally in recent years. Some decades ago, a designer and a watchmaker were the only people involved. Nowadays, there are many more disciplines: designers, movement and case engineers, material scientists, product management, marketing and sales, after-sales, and purchasing. The fact that you have all these people around the table not only makes the process more complicated but also contributes to a far better product. Because our designers and engineers work on the same CAD platforms, they can exchange 3D data very early. This was crucial for the development of the Ingenieur Automatic 40, where we placed such high emphasis on wearability and ergonomics. The process went from drawings and renderings to producing numerous 3D-printed and steel prototypes for every component. Once the prototype design was finalised, the focus shifted to serial production and quality management.
Was there pressure associated with revisiting a timepiece that had been reimagined by Gérald Genta, the creative mind behind horological icons such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus?
Absolutely. The Ingenieur SL belongs to the so-called “holy trinity” of Gérald Genta’s integrated sports watch designs from the 1970s. It is not every day that a designer gets the chance to work on reinterpreting such an icon. While the Ingenieur SL was not perfect, Genta’s achievement deserves the utmost respect. We were aware of the enormous responsibility this task entailed and proceeded with extreme caution. We discussed every visible change to the original design intensively and asked ourselves whether we could justify it. A focal point of our discussions, for example, was the new crown protection. But in the end, this striking design detail underscores the character of a full-fledged sports watch and blends perfectly with the design language of the case. When Evelyne Genta told us that her husband would certainly have approved of the new Ingenieur Automatic 40, it felt like a well-deserved reward for all the passion and hard work we had invested into this project.
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Genta’s design is characterised by its distinctive bezel, which holds significant importance. How did IWC modify and incorporate this feature into the design of the new Ingenieur?
The distinctive bezel is indeed one of the main design characteristics of Genta’s Ingenieur SL. For the new Ingenieur Automatic 40, we spent a lot of time tweaking the bezel’s overall proportions and finishing. The most obvious difference, however, is that we have used genuine hexagonal screws. The bezel with five recesses was screwed onto the case ring for the Ingenieur SL. The position of the recesses was purely random, and they were never in the same place. I am a perfectionist, and this is something that always bothered me. With the Ingenieur Automatic 40, five functional screws now secure the bezel to the case ring. The screws have a technical function and, as a result, are always in the same position. In addition, we have given the bezel a highly detailed finish with polished and satin-finished surfaces, making it look stunning in different lighting conditions.
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40
The new Ingenieur Automatic 40 introduces a reengineered middle-link attachment which is reminiscent of the Ingenieur SL. It not only enhances ergonomics but also offers an improved wrist fit with a curved casing ring that further enhances the case’s ergonomic qualities.
One of the most notable changes in this new model is the introduction of functional, polygonal screws on its bezel. In the case of the Ingenieur SL, a bezel with five recesses was affixed to the case ring, resulting in varying positions of the recesses on each watch. In the Ingenieur Automatic 40, five screws secure the bezel to the case, providing both functionality and consistent positioning.
Additionally, the dial has a “Grid” structure that features a pattern composed of intersecting lines offset by 90 degrees and is stamped into the soft iron blank before galvanisation. Furthermore, luminescent appliques add depth and ensure readability, even in low-light conditions.
The Ingenieur Automatic 40 displays an exceptional level of detail and finishing. The case, bezel, and bracelet undergo meticulous treatment, combining polished and satin-finished surfaces. The upper sections of the bracelet feature closed links without pins, showcasing the talent of the craftsmen. The inclusion of an intricately finished butterfly folding clasp accentuates the elegance and slimness of the H-link bracelet.
Powering the Ingenieur Automatic 40 is the IWC-manufactured 32111 calibre, equipped with an automatic pawl winding system and boasting a generous 120-hour power reserve. To ensure precision, a soft-iron inner case shields the movement from the disruptive influence of magnetic fields.
