From minute repeaters to gem-covered watches, here are a few we have selected and hope you love them as much as we do
Patek Philippe
The engineers at Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” have developed a totally new all-mechanical sound amplifying system. The Ref. 5750P Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” minute repeater is a winner when it comes to design and the crystal-clear sound of the cathedral gong.
This fortissimo “ff” module consists of a suspended sound lever and an oscillating wafer made of transparent sapphire-crystal glass. In comparison with conventional minute repeaters, it delivers the amplified sound of excellent acoustic quality.
All these features are fitted into a 40 mm dial. The dial features an openworked spiral motif inspired by the spoked wheels of vintage cars. The subsidiary seconds at six o’clock consists of a rotating disc with the same openworked motif against a black snailed background and a small marker that serves as a hand — a movable element that creates a unique, dynamic effect. The time is indicated by flat Dauphine hands in white gold and applied kite-type hour markers in blackened white gold.
For fans of minute repeaters, the sapphire-crystal case back reveals the hammers and the classic gongs of the minute repeater as well as the sound lever in the shape of a tuning fork that carries the transparent oscillating wafer of the fortissimo amplifier system.
The back also shows the Gyromax balance spring in Silin- var launched in 2006 by Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” as well as the large bridge with Geneva striping and carefully chamfered and
polished edges. The platinum mini rotor sports a ray pattern in the style of the dial; it was created with a laser-based light-absorbing surface texturing technique that allows certain segments to
appear black. This limited special edition is worn on a shiny orange alligator strap with black contrast seams and a platinum fold-over clasp.
Crowned by four patents, the pioneering technology is presented in the Ref. 5750 “Advanced Research” minute repeater, a special limited edition consisting of 15 watches.
Founded in 2005, the Patek Philippe “Advanced Research” department has been integrated into the Research & Development division and vested with the task of pursuing high-end research in the fields of new materials, technologies and conceptual fundamentals intended to open totally new perspectives in the domain of watchmaking.
See also: Defying traditions
Vacheron Constantin
Those who love the classic design style of Vacheron Constan- tin will not be disappointed with the Traditionnelle complete calendar openface model. As the name suggests, the open-worked sapphire dial reveals Calibre 2460 QCL/2, whose main- plate and bridges are highlighted by anthracite NAC galvanic surface treatment. The Calibre 2460 QCL/2 is the evolution of the 2450, the first self-winding movement entirely designed and developed by Vacheron Constantin.
This is because the watch is equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism, beats at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a 40-hour power reserve. This new design combines contemporary design and watchmaking heritage is a nod to the Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar model that was introduced in 2019.
On closer inspection, you will notice the adoption of some of the features from the Traditionnelle collection such as the stepped round case and lugs, the fluted caseback, the slim bezel, the railway minute-track, the bi-facetted Dauphine-type hands and the gold baton-style hour-markers. The opening onto the movement structure — perfectly visible on both sides of the watch and featuring an anthracite grey colour achieved by NAC treatment — highlights its mechanical power. Sur- rounded by a slate grey opaline flange on which a central hand points to the date, the upper part of the sapphire crystal dial features a likewise slate grey guilloché segment as well as applied gold hour-markers. At a glance, the three-part dial over-looks the sapphire discs providing an aperture-type display of the days and months. The moon-phase disc, with its two transferred depictions of Earth’s satellite, is also covered by a translucent sapphire mask. This airy construction provides a chance to admire the various movement components, including the bridges and mainplate featuring an original vertical upright finish on the front.
See also: Testing QA Urban luxury
Tudor
He may not be scoring goals on the soccer field anymore but David Beckham is sure scoring big in life. Beckham is the chosen one for Tudor’s signature is #BornToDare campaign. This slogan reflects both the history of the brand and what it stands for today. The “Born To Dare” spirit is supported throughout the world by first-class ambassadors, whose life achievements result directly from a daring approach to life. A perfect fit for Beckham as his story is about following his dreams with true grit and determination.
The film for this campaign was partly shot in an area of London featuring the English capital’s distinctive architecture, not unlike where Beckham grew up. In a sort of
flashback, it splits between the enthusiastic young dreamer (Beckham) and the man pushing him to outdo himself. Featuring alongside Beckham is the gorgeous Black Bay
Chrono model with the iconic “Snowflake” hands. Available in two versions, matt black or opaline, the dial includes two hollowed sub-counters in contrasting colours, matt black, and white opaline respectively, for optimum readability. There is a 45-minute counter and a date aperture positioned at six o’clock. The recognisable characteristics of the Black Bay are preserved in a steel case with a 41-millimetre diameter refined by the ingenious cut of the lower part of the sapphire crystal and a repositioned movement.
Breguet
We are absolutely in love with the Reine de Naples collection for two reasons; its master craftsmanship and for the romantic story behind it. But first, let us examine the technical beauty of the timepiece. The Reine de Naples collection draws its inspiration from the first wristwatch in history, delivered in 1812 to Napoleon’s sister, the elegant Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples. Each model in the contemporary collection, whether gemset, beaded, or lacquered, is an ode to femininity.
The dial is adorned with an airy sky whose white mother-of-pearl shimmer is sprinkled with “clouds”. At 12 o’clock, the trail of love appears in red to indicate the 45-hour power reserve. As if suspended from the clouds, the finely hammered moon-phase display is composed of white gold. Located in the lower part of the dial, the chapter ring is set with hand-guilloché natural white mother-of-pearl, as is the centre of the small seconds display. The open-tipped blued steel hands indicate the hours and minutes. Each second is priceless in the realm of love, which is why they are marked by a red-lacquered double heart. To round off the look, white gold bezel and case flange are sprinkled with a sprinkling of 128 diamonds and a crown set in ruby. The blazing red colour continues to the red alligator leather strap that is fitted with a white gold triple-blade folding clasp set with 28 diamonds.
Now here’s the romantic bit: During her reign in Naples, Caroline Murat, Napoleon Bonaparte’s young- er sister, was a great supporter of the arts and ac- quired over 30 Breguet watches and clocks. In 1810, the watchmaker based on the Quai de l’Horloge in Paris began a new creation for the Queen of Naples: a watch that could be worn on the wrist. It was the first wristwatch specifically designed for this purpose.