Watch collectors waited for the return of the very familiar octagonal bezel with a case that is reminiscent of a pothole found on ships and an embossed dial. This heralds the return of the Nautilus 5811/IG-001 by Patek Philippe with tweaks made to its predecessor, the 5711.
The Nautilus looks the same as the previous edition, but here are some subtle changes. It is now 41mm from the previous 40mm, a subtle change, but this highlights the white gold and an outstanding blue sunburst dial with black gradation, along with other technical and aesthetic additions.
The case is water-resistant to 120 meters and is in two parts which is a nod to the 1976 Nautilus. Take note of the new pull-out piece lever (patent pending) that allows the winding stem to be pulled out from the dial side. The self-winding calibre 26-330 S C can be seen through the sapphire-crystal case back. Its stop-seconds mechanism allows the time to be set with one-second accuracy.
The bracelet of the Nautilus is fitted with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp that is secured with four independent catches. Additionally, they have a new lockable adjustment system with which the bracelets can be easily, quickly and safely adjusted by 2 or 4 mm for added everyday wearing comfort.
From 2006 to 2021, the Nautilus Reference 5711/1 was one of the most coveted timepieces, and it first debuted in steel in 2015, and a rose gold version was unveiled. Patek Philippe is starting a new chapter in the history of this elegant sports icon with a white gold reinterpretation combined with a sunburst blue dial with a black-gradient rim.
See also: Defying traditions
Technical close-up
5811/1G – Date. Sweep Seconds
See also: Testing QA Urban luxury
Dial
• Sunburst blue with black-gradient rim, horizontally embossed, gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating
• White gold rounded baton-style hands with luminescent coating
Case
● White gold
● Diameter (10 to four o’clock): 41 mm
● Height: 8.2mm
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● Water-resistant to 120 m
● Screw-down crown
● Sapphire crystal case back
● Bracelet
● White gold
● Patented fold-over clasp with lockable adjustment system
Movement
● Caliber 26-330 S C
● Self-winding
● Date in an aperture
● Sweep seconds
● Diameter:27mm
● Height: 3.3mm
● Number of parts: 212
● Winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor
● Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour (4 Hz)
● Power reserve: minimum 35 hours, maximum 45 hours
The definitive collection
Here is more of what Patek Philippe offers to watch aficionados, with a few highlights for women
5373P-001
As the first left-hander chronograph in Patek Philippe’s recent history, the new Ref. 5373P-001 stands out with the unusual arrangement of the pushers and displays.
Its platinum case is endowed with the calibre CHR-27-525 PS Q, the thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement with a perpetual calendar ever built. It is crafted to venerable traditions. The charcoal-coloured dial with a black gradation and red varnished chronograph hands reflects a sporty and contemporary style echoed on the strap.
It is a highly exclusive timepiece crafted in small series for left-handers and connoisseurs of choice rarities.
5204G-001
Patek Philippe has reworked one of its great classics, endowing it with a white-gold case and an olive green sunburst dial with a black gradation to the periphery. This new Ref is a chord of colours that is both contemporary and timeless. The 5204G-001 split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar features the manually wound calibre CHR 29-535 PS Q movement, traditional architecture, and seven patented innovations. The new model combines two of Patek Philippe’s most coveted grand complications.
5990/1A-011
The Ref. 5990/1A-011 Nautilus Travel Time chronograph is one of Patek Philippe’s rare steel watches. It features a new blue dial with a ray sunburst dial and a delicate black gradation to the periphery.
The self-winding calibre CH 28-520 C FUS movement combines three convenient and user-friendly complications: a flyback chronograph, a Travel Time function (two time zones with two different hour hands; the skeletonised hand shows home time) and an analogue date at 12 o'clock which is synchronised with local time.
5712/1R-001
The famous Ref. 5712/1R-001 Nautilus with an analog date, moon phases, and a power-reserve indicator presents sporty appeal and elegance; it features a case and bracelet in rose gold with a brown sunburst dial and a black gradation.
The inimitable arrangement of the complications on the dial endows this flagship model with an eminently legible and highly distinctive face.
The legendary design of the Nautilus is emphasized by the polished and satin-finished decors on the case, the octagonal bezel, and the bracelet.
7118/1300R-001
Patek Philippe presents a new ladies’ Nautilus jewellery version in which rose gold harmonises distinctively with the lustre of spessartite gems.
The octagonal bezel is set with two rows of 68 spessartite baguettes that feature a double colour gradation from cognac at 12 and six to champagne at nine and three o'clock. The dial has hour markers made of ogive-shaped spessartite baguettes in cognac hues. This dynamic aspect endows this precious creation with a decidedly modern touch.
The dial assures excellent legibility with the undulating pattern typical for Nautilus ladies’ watches. This requirement applies to all Patek Philippe watches, even gem-set models.
