Despite the intermittent rain, the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Tokyo 2023 brought forth the enthusiasm of the guests, visitors, and media. The venue, Sumitomo Sankaku Hiroba in Shinjuku, is a sprawling plaza hall spanning approximately 3,200 sq m. To create an immersive experience, Patek Philippe adorned the hall with a glass roof that housed a replica of the iconic lakeside ambience, complete with the Flower Clock found in Geneva.
More than 500 exquisite timepieces and artefacts in this exhibition space showcase Patek Philippe’s expertise. Each piece is a testament to the brand’s unparalleled craftsmanship and artistic prowess.
The date chosen for the exhibition’s opening could not have been more auspicious. In Japan, June 10 has been designated as Clock Day since 1920. The Japanese have a rich history with water clocks known as rokoku, first produced in AD 660. These clocks pour water into a series of tanks. The last tank has an arrow attached to a floater that rises higher as the water level increases.
This is Patek Philippe’s sixth grand exhibition, and Japan was chosen due to its remarkable shared history. In 1873, the renowned Iwakura delegation, led by ambassador Tomomi Iwakura, visited Patek Philippe’s Geneva headquarters, where Antoine Norbert de Patek, the founder of the company, acted as their guide. This encounter resulted in Japanese dignitaries wanting to acquire Patek Philippe watches.
The official importation of Patek Philippe timepieces into Japan started in the late 1950s, paving the way for a lasting connection. Building upon this relationship, the Japanese subsidiary PP Japan Inc was established in 2003, further solidifying Patek Philippe’s presence in the country.
Equipped with a map of the exhibition hall and earphones, we navigated the easy-to-follow layout, enjoyed the clear and concise explanations provided through the commentary, and lost ourselves in the captivating Patek Philippe universe.
Paying homage
As a tribute to its close relationship with Japan, Patek Philippe has created six limited editions showcasing its watchmaking expertise.
Quadruple Complication Reference 5308P-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023
The watch features a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar in apertures. The new calibre R CHR 27 PS QI movement (799 parts) is distinguished by two patented innovations. The monopusher chronograph has 60-minute and 12-hour counters at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively. The split-seconds hand is controlled by its own pusher at 4 o’clock.
World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531R-014 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023
The dial centre has a Grand Feu cloisonné enamel decoration representing the historic Chuo district in the centre of Tokyo. The 452-part is hidden by a rose-gold case (diameter 40.2 mm). Its case band and minute-repeater slide have a hand-guilloched “Clous de Paris” motif.
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World Time Reference 5330G-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023
This watch is equipped with a patented world first: a date display synchronised with local time — that of the time zone selected at the 12 o’clock position and displayed by the centre hands. To offer this function, Patek Philippe developed a new movement, the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240 HU C, featuring an innovative, patented differential system (70 parts) enabling it to manage the date of the local time. Limited edition of 300 watches.
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Ladies’ Moon-Phase Reference 7121/200G-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023
The elegant watch houses a moon-phase display that deviates by merely one day in 122 years in relation to the true lunar cycle. Encircling the dial in two rows are 132 brilliant-cut diamonds (~1.09 ct) that show off the “lace” setting. The jewellery watch is powered by the calibre 215 PS LU manually wound mechanical movement — the smallest complicated movement made by Patek Philippe.
Calatrava References 6127G-010 and 7127G-010
A new Calatrava case features two-tier fluted and bevelled lugs to highlight timeless lines in harmony with the Japanese sense of refinement. The men’s Reference 6127G-010 (diameter 36 mm) features a dial in light-blue lacquer and a matching shiny alligator-leather strap, while the dial and strap of the ladies’ Reference 7127G-010 (diameter 31 mm) are in a delicate lilac shade. They house the calibre 215 PS manually wound movement, the manufacture’s smallest mechanical calibre.
The dome table clock 20137M-001 “Hanami” is named for the Japanese custom of going out to admire trees in bloom, particularly the flowering cherry blossoms
The dome table clock 20141M-001 “Japanese Stamps” has images of old stamps engraved by hand in line engraving and coated with translucent brown enamels to create a patina
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Rare Handcrafts Collection
We found ourselves spending a significant amount of time marvelling at the breathtaking display of exquisite handcrafts carefully preserved by Patek Philippe. Each piece was a testament to the remarkable craftsmanship and attention to detail that the brand is renowned for.
As we absorbed the vibrant and visually stunning sights, we couldn’t help but pause to contemplate the intricate processes behind the creation of these 40 masterpieces. There were 8 dome clocks, 5 table clocks, 9 pocket watches, and 18 wristwatches — each one a testament to the skill and artistry involved.
We were particularly drawn to the dome table clocks, which stood out with their vibrant hues and intricate details. Adorned in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel decorations, these clocks displayed a remarkable fusion of bright colours, delicate miniature paintings on enamel, and the use of gold or silver leaf embedded beneath the translucent enamel, known as paillonné enamel. It was impossible not to fall in love with these extraordinary timepieces.
The dome table clock 20140M-001 “Calligraphy” has a beautiful floral decoration that uses 33m of very fine gold wire, cut into tiny segments and shaped by hand, while the dome table clock 20137M-001 “Hanami” is named for the Japanese custom of going out to admire the trees in bloom, particularly the flowering cherry blossoms. The dome table clock 20141M-001 “Japanese Stamps” is one for the philatelist as it features images of old stamps engraved by hand in line engraving and then coated with translucent brown enamels to create a patina.
“Tokyo as the Crow Flies” (25014M-001) is a design inspired by a table clock made in the 1950s. The outlines of the picture required 12.4 m of gold wire measuring 0.2 x 0.6 mm in cross-section. All the areas to be enamelled were first adorned with a guilloche “barleycorn” motif that would remain visible beneath the translucent enamel.
Pocket watches are every connoisseur’s dream, and Patek Philippe did not disappoint with the 995/134G-001 “Shizuoka and Mount Fuji”. This watch is an example of mixed techniques, with the tea plantations in cloisonné enamel and the sky illuminated by a hand-guilloched sunburst beneath translucent enamel (flinqué enamel), combined with hand engraving in relief for the mountain and the train.
The pocket watch 992/178J-001 “Katagami” was inspired by the art of stencilling used to decorate fabric — with a hand-engraved motif beneath translucent enamel suggesting textile fibres.
paintings on enamel, and the use of gold or silver leaf embedded beneath the translucent enamel, known as paillonné enamel. It was impossible not to fall in love with these extraordinary timepieces.
Pocket watch 992/178J-001 “Katagami” was inspired by the art of stencilling used to decorate fabric – with a hand-engraved motif beneath translucent enamel suggesting textile fibres
The dome table clock 20140M- 001 “Calligraphy” has a beautiful floral decoration that uses 33m of very fine gold wire, cut into tiny seg- ments and shaped by hand, while the dome table clock 20137M-001 “Hanami” is named for the Japa- nese custom of going out to admire the trees in bloom, particularly the flowering cherry blossoms. The dome table clock 20141M-001 “Japanese Stamps” is one for the philatelist as it features images of old stamps en- graved by hand in line engraving and then coated with translucent brown enamels to create a patina.
“Tokyo as the Crow Flies” (25014M- 001) is a design inspired by a table Pocket watch 995/131G-001 “Portrait of a Samurai” features one of the most complex wood-marquetry decorations ever created by Patek Philippe
Several pieces pay tribute to Japanese tutelary figures such as warriors, or geisha musicians, for instance, the pocket watch 995/131G-001 “Portrait of a Samurai” — one of the most complex wood-marquetry decorations ever created by Patek Philippe. For this piece, the marquetry maker cut out and assembled 800 tiny veneer parts and 200 inlays, together spanning 53 species of wood of different colours, textures and veining.
A pendant watch presented to Queen Victoria during the esteemed Great Exhibition in London in 1851 (No. P-24)
The Patek Philippe Museum
The awe-inspiring display of around 190 pieces from the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, transported to Tokyo for all to admire, captivated us as soon as we laid eyes on it. As we immersed ourselves in the Antique Collection spanning from the 16th to the early 19th century, we were treated to a mesmerising array of the world’s oldest watches and a plethora of technical and aesthetic masterpieces.
Among the highlights were the exquisite timepieces from the renowned Patek Philippe Collection, which showed the manufacturer’s illustrious heritage. Notably, we marvelled at the first known perpetual calendar wristwatch, introduced by Patek Philippe in 1925 (No. P-72);, the iconic World Time wristwatch 1415 HU from 1948 (No. P-1026); and a remarkable pocket watch with a minute repeater and a great 30-day power reserve dating back to 1918, once owned by James Ward Packard (No. P-1703).
A beautiful addition to the exhibition was the new section titled Historical Owners, where we had the privilege of admiring a pendant watch presented to Queen Victoria during the esteemed Great Exhibition in London in 1851 (No. P-24), along with other timepieces that had graced the wrists of famous patrons.
The opportunity to witness these remarkable timepieces up close was an experience beyond compare, allowing us to delve into the rich history and storied legacy encapsulated within each meticulously crafted piece. The fascinating stories behind each piece left us in awe.
