As Watches and Wonders 2023 draws to a close, Nicholas Biebuyck finds himself nursing a sore throat due to his numerous presentations to the global media. As the heritage director at TAG Heuer, he had a busy schedule showcasing the new collections, focusing on the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph, specially crafted to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the iconic Carrera timepiece.
Biebuyck became a part of TAG Heuer in March 2021. Born and raised in the UK, he cultivated his career in London and Hong Kong. As the heritage director of TAG Heuer, he assumes responsibility for the brand’s extensive archives dating back to 1860, the TAG Heuer museum and communication efforts centred around its rich cultural history. Before that, Biebuyck was with Christie’s and Bonhams, a position that has prepared him for his role at TAG Heuer.
The interview begins with what many of us are curious about, Biebuyck’s role that goes beyond curating the TAG Heuer museum and archives. He says: “We preserve the company’s DNA that involves more than 100,000 paper assets. Let’s call them documents, photos, and other related items. We have recently undertaken a significant process to digitise these assets, and I’m pleased to say that the digitalisation itself is complete. Currently, we are working on hosting them on a platform, and we expect to complete that by sometime next year.”
The watch collection comprises more than 3,000 timepieces in the archives, and the primary emphasis lies on preservation and protection. Furthermore, he adds, there are ongoing plans for our museum’s redevelopment, and we aim to unveil a fresh vision for it by the upcoming year.
Organising events to spread the narrative of the TAG Heuer is part of his job, and last year, at a pop-up event in Singapore during the F1 night races, there were about 10 to 11 sets of the Carrera 60th anniversary watches. Biebuyck explains that these exhibitions are an integral part of our marketing and communication strategy; he is pretty involved in handling press briefings as a spokesperson for the brand, which keeps him busy. “While I’m not directly involved in product development, I provide support by briefing the teams and offering suggestions, drawing inspiration from iconic models for future development,” says the Briton.
In the case of TAG Heuer, the future means a look back at the past with more than 163 years of rich history behind it. Established in 1860 by Edouard Heuer in the Jura Mountains of Switzerland, TAG Heuer is a prestigious luxury watch brand and a part of the renowned LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE, the world’s leading luxury group. TAG Heuer has consistently demonstrated a pioneering spirit in watchmaking, driven by a commitment to innovation. The core collection proudly features three iconic families conceptualised by Jack Heuer — the TAG Heuer Carrera, Monaco, and Autavia, complemented by the contemporary TAG Heuer Link, Aquaracer, Formula 1 and Connected lines.
“The brand’s history is fairly well covered, so we consider ourselves quite lucky in that sense. One of the most valuable things for us has been encountering fortunate circumstances. For instance, I’ve had the opportunity to get to know Jack Heuer quite well, along with his family,” he says. Additionally, Biebuyck has had the opportunity to meet the man who led the marketing efforts of TAG Heuer from 1988 to 1999 and the person behind the successful launch of “Don’t crack under pressure” and “Successes in my game” in the 1990s. He says, “Meeting these profiles has given me a great deal of understanding and knowledge to learn from. We have had some good, extensive conversations lasting three to four hours, and they have been extremely insightful and valuable.”
The relationship between cars and timepieces is often intertwined through the shared values of precision, craftsmanship and innovation. Both cars and timepieces require meticulous engineering and precise mechanisms to function flawlessly. This is especially true for Biebuyck, whose passion for watches happened long before he joined the watch industry. What sparked it was his father’s interest in classic cars and motorcycles created a strong connection for him. He recalls: “It was one of my first great loves, even though we weren’t wealthy enough to own them. Instead, we would attend historic racing events where I would spot the TAG Heuer logo on some of the cars, which was always a delight.”
With his past work experience at Christie’s and Bonhams, we wonder if that has translated well into his current role. Biebuyck says: “It is useful when we’re looking at acquiring watches because it’s very easy for me to make decisions on pricing and the quality of the watch. I can see through the stories told by watch dealers about what they’re offering and truly understand the asset for what it is. Additionally, documenting provenance is essential. I often get called up, and someone claims they have a watch that belonged to a specific driver. I often ask for evidence like photos, letters, or other documentation to verify such claims. This kind of forensic analysis of the asset is something I developed in the auction business, but its usefulness extends far beyond that.”
For those looking to buy a vintage watch, Biebuyck says to look at the condition of the watch and here is what he looks at:
The stretch and sharpness of the bracelet.
Cleanliness of the dial.
Avoid relying solely on the story or claims provided by others; instead, physically inspect the watch to make an informed decision.
Chronographing 60 years
This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Carrera, a legendary timepiece that has consistently gained popularity while retaining its original significance as a symbol of ambition, accomplishment and refined taste
In honour of six decades of this timeless classic, TAG Heuer introduces the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph, featuring a stainless-steel case with a diameter of 39 mm. Due to their lightweight and shatterproof properties, the case is topped with a sapphire crystal reminiscent of the domed hesalite crystals used in early space exploration. However, the crystal has been redesigned with a graceful curve that seamlessly flows over the tachymeter scale around the dial’s edge and blends into the case.
Similarly, the flange and indexes have been curved to enhance the watch’s cohesive and legible appearance. This design approach aligns with the original vision of founder Jack Heuer, allowing the tachymeter to be read from a broader range of angles.
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph is available in two models. One features a signature blue dial matched with a blue calfskin leather strap, while the other boasts a sportier “reverse panda” dial in black and silver. The “reverse panda” dial nickname refers to black watch dials with high-contrast white or silver sub-dials and pays homage to the most sought-after Heuer Carreras from the 1960s.
Underneath the dial, both versions house an evolved version of TAG Heuer’s in-house automatic chronograph calibre, the Heuer 02, now named TH20-00. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, the next-generation movement includes an oscillating weight offering bidirectional winding, allowing the mainspring to charge regardless of the rotor’s rotation direction, a step forward from previous models.
These two watches represent distinct expressions of the enduring Carrera philosophy. The blue model draws inspiration from modernity, while the black-and-silver model leans into the Carrera’s racing heritage. Subtle variations in the subdial scales and the date’s position achieved this effect, with the date located at 6 o’clock on the blue model and moved up to 12 o’clock on the black-and-silver version to ensure a clear and unobstructed chronograph reading.
