Franck Muller
The Vanguard Gravity Tiger by Franck Muller pays tribute to the revered Chinese zodiac animal with a combination of high watchmaking, gem-setting, and miniature sculpting and painting.
The timepiece features a hand-sculpted and hand-lacquered tiger that appears to leap over the tourbillon carriage on the dial with a case that is set with gemstones. The tiger sculpture, made entirely in-house in Les Bois, features a life-like cat that is then struck on a thin piece of brass. The sculpture is then blasted to smoothen the surface, then hand-painted with lacquer, layer by layer, to create the exact shades of col- our on the beautiful feline. A total of 36 layers of tinted, translucent lacquer is applied to bring the Asian tiger to life, with 10 layers just for the eyes alone.
The large case of the Vanguard Gravity Tiger, at 49.5mm by 41mm, acts as a canvas for the pouncing tiger, even with the Gravity tourbillon taking up more than half of the dial. It also leaves plenty of room in the MVT FM L03 movement for a generous mainspring, giving a power reserve of up to five days. Each version is limited to three pieces and is exclusively available at Franck Muller boutiques and retailers.
Piaget
Every year for the past 10 years, Piaget has captivated fans with the launch of specially-designed timepieces to celebrate the Chinese zodiac animal. The Maison’s highlight this year is the Altiplano timepiece featuring a tiger in cloisonné grand feu enamel. This masterpiece was crafted by master-enameller Anita Porchet who created 38 timepieces depicting the tiger roaring across the 38mm dial in an 18K white gold case set with 78 brilliant-cut diamonds. The tiger gets its power from the Maison’s ultra-thin, manual-winding 430P movement, attesting to Piaget’s expertise in ultra-thin watchmaking, gem-setting and artistic craftsmanship excellence.
To note: Anita Porchet has been collaborating with Piaget since 2006 and is renowned for her mastery of all the enamelling techniques. The cloisonné technique used for this Altiplano watch is a 4,000-year-old decorative art. It starts with a transfer of the design onto the surface of the dial using gold ribbons to create miniature partitions, or cloisons, in which the different enamel pigments are placed. The dial is then fired in the kiln multiple times at temperatures of 820–850°C. Once finished, the dial is varnished, capturing the image forever.
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Harry Winston
To honour the Year of the Tiger, Harry Winston showcases a timepiece that depicts two tiger cubs on its dial, along with gold rosettes inspired by the grand entryway leading into Harry Winston’s iconic Fifth Avenue Salon. This is the first time a rosette motif is used on a Harry Winston timepiece. The floral rosette pattern is taken from the wrought iron gates leading to Harry Winston’s Flagship Salon at 718 Fifth Avenue. Adopted as the leitmotif of the Winston Gates fine jewellery collection, three gold rosettes are on the dial of this timepiece. Crafted in 18-carat rose gold and with a diamond in their centre, the 3D rosettes add volume to the dial. To recreate the coat of the tiger, each cub is crafted in 18-carat rose gold, while the characteristic stripes of the feline are rendered in the cut-out areas of the gold and then filled with red beaded mother-of-pearl. Their endearing faces, complete with whiskers and noses, are highlighted with diamond eyes. The combination of the red mother-of-pearl background and gleaming gold augurs good fortune and prosperity.
The timepiece runs on a Swiss-made mechanical automatic movement that is fitted with a flat silicon balance spring to ensure precision. The rose gold skeletonised rotor and the movement with its refined finishes can be viewed on the transparent caseback.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
From the 90-year-old Reverso comes the Reverso Tribute Enamel “Tiger” that was created to commemorate Lunar New Year and the opening of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new flagship boutique in Shanghai.
The swivelling the watch case on its reverse side reveals a tiger that is engraved into the pink gold case metal. The effect is one where the tiger seems to leap out from its background of black opaque Grand Feu enamel; a delicate technique that requires numerous firing processes to build the enamel layers.
The polished surface of the tiger’s coat, and the contrasting- ing rhodium-brushed texture of its stripes catching and re- fracting the light give an illusion of movement and power. To add depth to the engraving, the artisan engraver used a technique called modelled engraving. In this method, chisels of different sizes are used to sculpt the metal step by step — a delicate task that requires focus and dexterity. The dial of the Reverso Tribute Enamel features the same opaque black Grand Feu enamel as the case back. The elegant simplicity of the Reverso Tribute dial, with its faceted appliqué hour-markers, chemin de fer minutes track, and Dauphine hands, which in this case, perfectly matched to the pink gold of the case, place full value on the subtle beauty of the glowing black background.
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TAG Heuer
The Carerra gets the Lunar New Year treatment that has made history. In 1963, Jack Heuer created the Carrera, paying homage to the Carrera Panamericana motor race that only the most seasoned drivers can handle.
TAG Heuer Carrera’s Year of the Tiger Limited Edition launched this year jas a sporty and traditional design interpretation. The dial combines bluish and water-tone hues with dark stripes that represent the fur of the tiger. The lighter blue stripes are made of horizontally brushed metal coated with blue PVD treatment while the darker stripes are made of painted textured metal. A blue tiger waiting to attack also adorns the sapphire crystal, which provides a view of the oscillating mass, and the caseback of this Carrera timepiece limited to 300 pieces is engraved “ONE OF 300”.
Other aesthetic elements include the 18K rose gold plated used for the indexes, the three hands (hours, minutes and seconds) and the day and date apertures, not to mention the TAG Heuer logo at 12 o’clock. These same colours appear on the elegant blue calfskin strap, featuring a delicately stitched double gold colour border.
The timepiece is sold in a blue lacquered box, which features the same blue tiger-stripe design as the dial of the watch.
Vacheron Constantin
To create the delicate design on the dial, Vacheron Constantin adapts the paper-cutting technique that has been used in China for centuries. A perfect tribute to the Maison’s relationship with China that dates back to 1845 as well as the similar technique called the Scherenschnitt paper-cutting method used by the Swiss.
In the Métiers d’Art The legend of the Chinese zodiac — Year of the Tiger, has the vegetal motifs appearing on the dial and based on classic Chinese iconography are etched directly in the metal. The pattern remains semi-embedded and stands out from its gold base by a subtle stage-setting of variously accentuating reliefs creating a depth effect. This makes the vegetation appear to be floating over the dial.
Next is the Grand Feu enamelling where layers of enamel are placed to achieve the necessary mastery of colour and of reactions to firing at temperatures of 800–900°C. The animal, made of platinum or pink gold, is hand engraved and delicately applied to the dial centre.
To give this timepiece its power, the Calibre 2460 G4 is used while the hands-free time display is achieved through four apertures showing the hours, minutes, days and dates. These indications — the first two of the dragging variety and the last two of the jumping type — proudly embody the longstanding savoir-faire of the Maison in designing and developing original displays. Clearly visible through the sapphire crystal back of the platinum or pink gold case, the 22-carat oscillating weight features a decor inspired by the Maltese cross emblem.
Chopard
The much-anticipated Chinese zodiac timepiece that is launched yearly by Chopard is here. This year, Chopard pays homage to the majestic tiger in the form of the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Tiger that is based on the L.U.C XP ultra-thin model, featuring a dial adorned using the Urushi Maki-e technique. This 88-piece collection features some of the best designs and techniques from the finest Japanese lacquer craftsmen, who pro- duce dials using the ancestral Urushi lacquer technique. These are produced in the workshops of the century-old company Yamada Heiando and crafted by Master lacquer artist Minori Koizumi who devoted no less than 160 hours to this meticulous task.
The case of the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Tiger timepiece is entirely carved from 18-carat rose gold, sourced from an ethical supply chain pioneered by Chopard. It measures 39.5mm in diameter and its slim bezel ensures a broad dial opening. In addition to its graceful design and refined ornamental execution, the L.U.C XP Urushi Year of the Tiger is also an ultra-thin timepiece measuring a mere 6.80mm thick. The timepiece runs on a 3.30 mm-thick inhouse L.U.C 96.17-L movement that is self-winding.
