We all have different reasons for purchasing a timepiece. For some, it may be the narrative attached to it — whether rooted in heritage, technical innovation, or an association with a notable personality. Rolex embodies all these qualities and more, especially in the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II, which has a fascinating history attached to it.
At Watches and Wonders this year, Rolex unveiled the GMT-Master II in two new Oystersteel versions, both featuring a 24-hour graduated two-colour Cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic. The visibility of the bezel’s graduation is due to the platinum coating applied using PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The first watch is fitted with an Oyster bracelet, while the second sports a Jubilee bracelet.
PVD is the vaporisation of a solid material within a vacuum environment, which then condenses to create a thin film. This is a method used across industries, such as aerospace, automotive, medical and electronics, to enhance surfaces’ wear resistance, hardness, corrosion resistance and aesthetics.
Other notable features include a black lacquer dial that has the inscription “GMT-Master II” in green, echoing the colour of the triangle-tipped 24-hour hand — an element that features strongly in the model’s design. The GMT-Master II is powered by calibre 3285, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex that enables the watch to display the date and an additional time zone in 24-hour format, as well as the hours, minutes and seconds.
Introducing the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II
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The acronym “GMT” stands for Greenwich Mean Time, signifying the average solar time observed at the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. This location also marks the prime meridian, which was internationally ratified at the International Meridian Conference in Washington in 1884. Until 1972, “GMT” was the international time standard and an indispensable reference point for the aviation industry in particular.
Today, in watchmaking, “GMT” describes a function that allows a watch to show the time in two different time zones at once, by way of the traditional display as well as an additional 24-hour hand combined with the corresponding graduation on the bezel. The 24-hour hand of the GMT-Master II displays much more than just an alternative time zone. It points to another location that resonates with the wearer — a reminder of the emotions that accompany each traveller.
The GMT-Master II has new features that show off Rolex’s innovative minds such as the use of a Cerachrom bezel. Introduced in 2005, the Cerachrom bezel insert, the first high-technology ceramic component developed by Rolex, appears today on specific Professional models in the Oyster collection. Thanks to the particularly durable properties of these high-technology ceramic components, the watches retain all of their beauty and functionality even in the most extreme conditions.
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On the new versions of the GMT-Master II, the bi-directional rotatable bezel has moulded, recessed graduations and numerals that are coated with platinum via PVD. The bezel can also be turned with ease thanks to its knurled edge, which offers excellent grip.
With a 40 mm Oyster case, the timepiece is waterproof to a depth of 100 m (330 ft). The middle case of the versions presented is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel. Its case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down using a sealing technique where a screw-down case back or crown is tightly fastened to create an airtight and watertight seal. It can only be opened with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement.
Another feature to note is the Triplock winding crown, fitted with a triple waterproofness system and protected by an integral crown guard, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, which features a Cyclops lens at
3 o’clock for easy reading of the date, is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and benefits from an anti-reflective coating. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimal protection for the movement it houses.
The GMT-Master II’s calibre 3285 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high-energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, this escapement is resistant to strong magnetic fields. The movement is fitted with a blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy.
Adventure-seekers will appreciate that the hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature fluctuations as well as high resistance to shocks. It is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is mounted on the Rolex-designed, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance. Since 2023, the oscillating weight has been fitted with an optimised ball-bearing.
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The GMT-Master II in Oystersteel with grey and black Cerachrom bezel insert is fitted on an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. Developed in the late 1930s, the Oyster bracelet is a three-piece link metal bracelet known for its robustness; it remains the most universal bracelet in the Oyster Perpetual collection. Supple and comfort-able, the Jubilee bracelet is a five-piece link metal bracelet; it was specially created for the Oyster Perpetual Datejust, which was launched in 1945.
Both the Oyster bracelet and the Jubilee bracelet of the GMT-Master II are equipped with the Oysterlock folding safety clasp, which prevents accidental opening. They also feature the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by Rolex, which allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm.
Like all Rolex watches, the GMT-Master II is covered by the Superlative Chronometer certification, guaranteeing that each watch has successfully undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria, following the official certification of the movements by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The Superlative Chronometer status is symbolised by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.
A look back
To fully understand the evolution of this timepiece is to look to its past which can be traced back to 1955. This was a time when the world was recovering from World War II and a new aviation era was emerging, characterised by the rising popularity of long-haul flights.
The ideal companion for any traveller was the GMT-Master, featuring a dedicated 24-hour hand and a graduated, rotatable two-colour bezel. This design innovation allowed frequent flyers navigating different time zones to effortlessly track both their home time and the local time of their destination with just a quick glance.
To seal Rolex’s support in aviation, a new partnership with Pan American World Airways, better known as Pan Am, was birthed. In 1959, the GMT-Master became the official watch of the most prominent American intercontinental airline at the time. Pan Am pilots were equipped with GMT-Master watches and appeared in advertisements for Rolex, helping to make the model an emblem of the aeronautical world.
Through this partnership, the GMT-Master saw the inclusion of new technical features. The 24-hour graduated bezel insert, originally crafted from Plexiglas, was now produced in anodised aluminium for improved durability. Additionally, a winding crown guard was seamlessly integrated into the middle case, enhancing the watch’s robustness and functionality.
Rolex’s technical capabilities in 1982 saw a new movement that allowed the hour hand to be adjusted independently of the minute hand and 24-hour hand. By pulling the winding crown out to the first notch and turning it in either direction, the hour hand “jumps” forward or backwards in increments of one hour. The watch can therefore be set to a new time zone without affecting any of its other functions.
To clearly mark this evolution and avoid any confusion with the GMT-Master, the watch with the new movement was named the GMT-Master II. The timepiece debuted a burgundy and black bezel insert, a combination exclusive to the new model. The GMT-Master and the GMT-Master II co-existed until 2000.
In 2005, the GMT-Master II received an update with the first bezel insert made of ceramic on a Rolex watch. This high-technology ceramic is extremely hard, virtually scratchproof, and its colour is unaffected by ultraviolet rays. In addition, thanks to its chemical composition, it is inert and cannot corrode. Initially entirely black, this component was subsequently produced in various two-tone combinations, immortalising the iconic design of the original GMT-Master.
The bezel insert in ceramic — named Cerachrom in 2008 — marked a new turning point for the brand at a time when the race was on throughout the industry for greater technological performance. It confirmed Rolex’s place at the cutting edge of innovation for research and development into high-tech ceramic components.
Collectors were delighted with the 2022 iteration of the timepiece as this version, with a green and black Cerachrom insert, stood apart from others in the range for having its winding crown on the left side of the case. The date window was also uniquely placed at 9 o’clock. This GMT-Master II is the only Rolex watch to feature such a configuration.
Following on from the watches in 18 ct yellow gold and the yellow Rolesor variants presented in 2023, Rolex has launched two new versions of the GMT-Master II in 2024, both also equipped with a Cerachrom bezel insert in grey and black ceramic.
In good company
Since its inception, the GMT-Master II has been the watch of choice for world travellers. Aviators, adventurers, athletes, artists and explorers — trailblazing individuals from all walks of life — have contributed to the legend of this watch naturally destined for adventure. A watch for those who, on their journeys, have forged connections across boundaries, be they geographic, symbolic or cultural. Here are a few Rolex Testimonees worth a mention:
- Sir Jackie Stewart: Formula for success
Sir Jackie Stewart is one of the most emblematic figures in motor racing. His achievements make him one of the most celebrated Formula 1® drivers of the last 60 years. The Scottish champion took part in 99 Grand Prix races, winning 27, finishing 43 times on the podium and carrying off three world championship titles (1969, 1971 and 1973). Since 1969, he has remained very fond of his GMT-Master.
- Roger Federer: Around the world in 310 weeks
Not only is he a phenomenally successful tennis player, Roger Federer is also admired for his on-court attitude, his elegant style and his ability to constantly challenge himself to improve his game. Throughout the years, these qualities kept him at the pinnacle of his sport, where he remained World No. 1 for 310 weeks. This globetrotting champion particularly enjoys wearing the GMT-Master II, of which he owns several.
- Garbiñe&n Muguruza: Unique character
Early talent and steely determination helped Garbiñe Muguruza become the World No. 1 in 2017. Her remarkable record of Grand Slam® titles includes Roland-Garros in 2016 and The Championships, Wimbledon, the following year. In November 2021, she added a further triumph by winning the WTA Finals. The Spanish champion likes to wear a watch with unique character: a GMT-Master II in 18 ct white gold with a meteorite dial.
- Scott Brash: Riding high
In winning consecutively all three equestrian Grand Prix — Geneva, Aachen and Spruce Meadows in Calgary — Scott Brash entered the history books. Following his extraordinary achievement, in 2015, the Scottish rider received a GMT-Master II with a red and blue Cerachrom bezel insert. It is a watch he is particularly proud of: “Every time I look at it, it brings back memories of that day in Calgary.”
