If there is a watch brand that can get its fans’ adrenalin rising, it has to be Roger Dubuis, which proudly describes itself as impertinent, excessive and slightly mad. Yes, it is about the
ability to laugh, scream, roar, and create. Can this cutting-edge Maison live up to this hype? With the launch of Excalibur Monobalancier at this year’s Watches & Wonders 2022, yes. This timepiece is considered a must-have for a true Hyper Horology aficionado. In other words, timepieces that “surpasses the norm. With highly admired complications and innovative mechanisms, this is a design that stands out with pride”, according to the Roger Dubuis website.
Roger Dubuis watches are both hyper durable and hyper expressive. The striking ceramic cases prove the Maison's determination to master advanced hyper materials while showing what’s possible when reinventing a classic. Roger Dubuis’ ceramic is solidly black inside and out, four times harder than stainless steel.
Ceramic watches are not new and have been around for a while, but in the Roger Dubuis collection, ceramic timepieces stand out with a display of true prowess for one reason: a refusal to compromise when it comes to the Maison's signature shape. Achieving the desired design result meant that the entire manufacturing process was overhauled, something unheard of in the watchmaking universe.
Nevertheless, Roger Dubuis made it work by taking ceramic from its raw form to the distinctive case it’s known for. This requires remarkable talent in dealing with the transformative grinding that takes 10 times as long as any other of its pieces. Only the boldest, most dedicated and skilled watchmaker would take on such a task.
Here’s the technical explanation: It begins with a blend of powders made of zirconia combined with 3% stabilising yttrium, resulting in its hyper-resistant hardness. The hyper-skilled engineers transform these powders first into a blank and then through a machining process six times lengthier than the standard.
The subsequent sintering and heating take up to 48 hours. The final stage involves hand-finishing this hard material, which demands extreme craftsmanship and meticulous care. The effort is worth it; not only is the case hyper-resistant to daily scratches, but this step also achieves an immutably bold black finish.
Refusing to tarnish or reduce in intensity over time, Roger Dubuis’ radiant black ceramic is where hyper durability meets hyper expressivity in a single timepiece.
