Patek Philippe
Watchmakers at Patek Philippe have been busy launching 17 new timepieces at this year’s Watches and Wonders 2023. The range of timepieces includes a Calatrava model with a unique 24-hour display and Travel Time function for displaying a second time zone, as well as a new haute joaillerie version of the Grandmaster Chime. Additionally, the ladies’ Aquanaut Luce collection welcomes its first Annual Calendar model.
On the question of why so many different collections, Thierry Stern, president of the family-owned manufacture, says it is because “each of them has its own character and its own way of enabling us to innovate and express ourselves”.
4997/200R-001
Draped in a daring shade of purple, the Calatrava Reference 4997 steps into the world of elegant ladies’ watches. Rose gold is used to create the warmth that this timepiece exudes while diamonds dot the bezel.
The base of the dial is embossed with a concentric waves pattern that is coated with more than 50 successive layers of translucent lacquer, giving it an illusion of depth. The shade of the dial is echoed by the purple calfskin strap with a satin finish and rose gold prong buckle. The case houses the ultra-thin self-winding Caliber 240.
Since its inception in 1932, the Calatrava has retained its iconic, sleek round case and understated elegance. Its timeless design has allowed it to evolve over the years while remaining true to its roots, making it a classic timepiece that has stood the test of time.
6300/403G-001
Here is one reason why Patek Philippe is so successful: They are able to successfully marry Haute Horlogerie and Haute Joaillerie. This is done by reinterpreting its most complicated wristwatch in a white gold version set with 118 baguette-cut emeralds (7.87 cts) and 291 baguette-cut diamonds (20.54 cts), using the “invisible setting” technique.
Featuring an impressive 20 complications, this watch boasts five acoustic functions, including two patented world exclusives: an alarm that sounds at the programmed time and a date-repeater that strikes the date at will.
Its reversible double-sided case is distinguished by a patented swivel mechanism, allowing it to be worn with either dial visible. This exquisite timepiece comes with white gold cufflinks set with a row of stunning baguette-cut emeralds.
TAG Heuer
This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Carrera and this iconic timepiece has only grown in popularity over the years while maintaining its original message as a symbol of aspiration, achievement and good taste.
To celebrate six decades of this timeless classic, TAG Heuer has released the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph with a stainless-steel case measuring 39mm in diameter. The case is topped with a sapphire crystal shaped like the domed hesalite crystals (Hesalite is a type of plastic material used for watch crystals that were popular in the early days of space exploration, as they were lightweight and shatterproof). These are found on Heuer Carrera models but with a redesigned curve that flows seamlessly over the tachymeter scale around the dial’s edge and into the case.
In the same way, the flange and indexes have been curved too to emphasise the watch’s seamless aesthetic, coherence, and legibility. In keeping with founder Jack Heuer’s original purpose for the watch, this development is more than aesthetic — it also means the tachymeter can be read from a wider range of angles.
There are two models — One in a signature blue dial on a blue calfskin leather strap and a second with a racier, black-and-silver “reverse panda” dial, the nickname given to black watch dials with high-contrast white or silver subdials. This reverse panda model is a greatest hits compilation of some of the most coveted Heuer Carreras of the 1960s.
Inside both iterations of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph is an evolved version of TAG Heuer’s in-house automatic chronograph caliber, the Heuer 02. Named TH20-00 and visible through the watch’s sapphire crystal case back, the next-generation movement now features an oscillating weight offering bidirectional winding although previous versions only charged the movement’s mainspring if the rotor moved in a counter-clockwise direction.
These two watches represent different expressions of the same evergreen philosophy. The blue model is inspired by modernity, while the black-and-silver model leans more on the TAG Heuer Carrera’s racing heritage. Subtle differences in the application of the subdial scales and the position of the date achieved this effect, with the date located at six o’clock on the blue model and pushed up to 12 o’clock on the black-and-silver version to ensure a clean chronograph readout.
See also: Defying traditions
Tudor
The all-new Black Bay 54 takes its design references from the 1954 edition, the very first dive watch launched by Tudor. The historical proportions of the 37mm stainless steel case of this watch are paired with a 60-minute unidirectional bezel that lacks hash marks, giving it a clean and simple look. The subtly domed satin radial-brushed black dial features gilt accents and is complemented by the signature “Snowflake” hands that were first introduced in the Tudor diver's watches in 1969. The hands are coated with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova luminescent material for enhanced visibility in low-light conditions.
Keeping the watch ticking is the Manufacture Calibre MT5400 which displays hour, minute and second functions. It has the finish typical of Tudor Manufacture Calibres: Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed with sand-blasted details, and its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted, polished surfaces and laser decorations.
Another timepiece to highlight is the Royal Range. Boasting first-class technical performance and a refined aesthetic, this line sits at the crossroads between classic and sports watches. Royal was a name first used by Tudor in the 1950s to emphasize the superior quality of its watches.
See also: Testing QA Urban luxury
The collection offers four case diameters, ranging from 28mm to 41mm, all of which are crafted from either 316L stainless steel or a combination of 316L stainless steel and yellow gold. The signature notched bezel comes in either material, with the 28mm version featuring a diamond-set bezel. There are 13 possible dials, featuring a variety of sunray satin finishes, including two new colours: salmon and chocolate brown, as well as mother-of-pearl dials with applied or diamond Roman numerals. Baton hands with Grade A Swiss Super-LumiNova luminescent material make for easy legibility in poor lighting conditions.
Vacheron Constantin
Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde date openface is a result of a combination of modern design and watchmaking heritage that the brand is renowned for. The Maison’s commitment to maintaining the highest standards of traditional watchmaking is evident in the exemplary finishing and openface dial of the model.
A retrograde date displays information on an arc-shaped scale, with the hands or indicators moving along the scale and then quickly returning to their starting position to begin again. Instead of moving in a continuous circular motion like traditional watch hands, the retrograde hand snaps back to the starting position after reaching the end of the scale. This creates an interesting visual effect and adds a unique element of complexity to the watch movement.
Most retrograde displays apply to cyclical time indications such as hours, minutes, seconds, days, or dates. This mechanism requires great precision and rigorous discipline, particularly with regard to shock- and wear-resistance.
The Calibre 2162 R31, an in-house self-winding movement, is the highlight of this timepiece. It seamlessly merges a retrograde mechanism with a tourbillon, resulting in a rare and stunning technical geometry. The openworked dial offers a clear view of the retrograde mechanism, which adds to the watch's appeal. The tourbillon, placed on a modern mainplate, boasts an impeccable watchmaking finish that reflects the grand tradition of Geneva.
The second watch to note is the Overseas collection that for the first time incorporates a retrograde display, a function that is part of Vacheron Constantin’s living heritage and continually reinvents itself. Added to this, is the astronomical complication with a retrograde date display.
The Overseas, which made its debut in 2016, blends performance and style, high watchmaking and casual elegance. Over the years, the watch has evolved to make a statement with its recognisable six-sided bezels, in-house self-winding movements and interchangeable bracelets/straps.
All these design changes have led to today’s iteration featuring a 4 mm steel case with in-house Calibre 2460 R31L/2 — a movement that reflects the grand watchmaking traditions of the brand while maintaining a modern and contemporary spirit, which is inherent to the collection.
The blue lacquered dial of this watch has become an icon in its own right. Its velvet-finish flange and sunburst satin-brushed centre work together to create a stunning play of light. The complications are easy to read, thanks to the design's extreme legibility. This timepiece encapsulates the essence of the Overseas collection and is a true horological masterpiece. Designed for those with an active lifestyle, it comes equipped with a practical strap/bracelet interchangeability system. This feature allows for easy switching between a steel bracelet and two additional straps — one made from calfskin leather, and another from blue rubber.
Montblanc
The limited-edition Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph is launched. This watch boasts the hand-wound Minerva MB M16.29 movement, which has been flipped over to showcase the mechanical action on the dial side of the watch. Despite appearing to be a skeletonised movement at first glance, the historic chronograph movement is fully displayed on the dial side of the watch.
While flipping the movement may sound like a straightforward task, it is a technical feat that requires reversing the direction of the hands. The MB M16.29 calibre was one of the few movements in Montblanc’s collection of chronographs that could accommodate this alteration. To achieve this, 21 additional components were added, making this more than just an aesthetic feature but also a technical accomplishment. This is one of the first instances in Minerva’s 165-year history that a timepiece features the movement on the dial, making it an irresistible piece for watch enthusiasts who want to appreciate the movement without modifying their timepiece. The watch comes in a distressed steel finish, achieved by coating the 43mm stainless steel case with a black finish.
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Panerai
The Radiomir Otto Giorni has a sandwich case that is hand-finished one by one to create a seasoned, worn look that comes with its unique style. The rugged look is paired with elements of the original Radiomir created for the Royal Italian Navy, such as the cushion-shaped case, slim wire lugs and the iconic sandwich dial.
The Super-LumiNova dial includes a small seconds display at 9 o’clock, while the open back case and domed sapphire glass crystal pay homage to the Plexiglass® crystals of the past.
Additionally, the watch features a cone-shaped crown, setting it apart from other Panerai timepieces. Two versions of the watch are available: PAM01347 with a grainy-shaded dark brown dial, and PAM01348 in blue. Both dials transition from a lighter centre to a darker gradient at the edges, creating a unique depth to their grainy appearance. These grainy dials are a tribute to the historic Radiomir watches, which evolved in colour and appearance over time due to the anodisation process of some historic aluminium dials. To match the dials, the watch has a supple calf leather strap in the same hue, featuring a pebbled effect and contrasting stitching designed to season with wear. The hand-wound P.5000 calibre powers the Radiomir Otto Giorni, offering an impressive eight-day power reserve, a feature with historical significance for Panerai. The iconic eight-day movement is visible through the open case-back in sapphire crystal.
Piaget
The Maison is celebrating its high jewellery heritage this year, combining it with its watchmaking expertise to pay tribute to its trailblazing collection and goldsmithing skills.
Piaget shows us a whole new way to tell time by crafting two hand-crafted sautoirs made from twisted gold chains and three exquisite gold cuff watches featuring intricate hand-texturing. Crafting twisted gold chains involves wrapping a single strand of wire around a mandrel to create a coil, which is then painstakingly hand-twisted and shaped into uniform links before final assembly. The process takes at least 130 hours, resulting in unique chains.
One sautoir features a vivacious tassel-style design set with a 25.38ct oval cabochon Zambian emerald that matches an oval-shaped dial, a signature Piaget shape from the 1960s. The other sautoir showcases twisted gold encircling the dial, which is brought to life through Palace Decor, the epitome of Piaget’s gold craftsmanship.
Van Cleef & Arpels
The exhibition space at Watches and Wonders is transformed into an enchanted forest, hinting at an equally enchanting collection inside. We love the Lady Féerie watch draped in all pink; it is a stunning masterpiece that blends watchmaking, jewellery-making, and rare skills.
In a surreal scene, a fairy adorned with a diamond and pink sapphire dress and miniature painting on gold marks the passing hours with her magic wand in the soft light of dusk. The fairy sits on an iridescent cloud of white mother-of-pearl, exuding an air of protection and inspiration.
The watch features a self-winding mechanism, jumping hours, and retrograde minutes, all carefully crafted to fit into the compact 33mm case. The dial is the centrepiece of the watch, showcasing a soft gradient of four colours — from pearly white to deep plum, with delicate gold and an intense fuchsia — that depicts an evening sky. Van Cleef & Arpels craftsmen had to make more than 10 attempts to achieve this effect.
The fairy’s wings are adorned with plique-à-jour enamel, displaying a unique shade of pink specially created by the brand’s enamel workshop to harmonise with the dial colours.
