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Jewel in the crown

Diana Khoo
Diana Khoo • 7 min read

The jewel of the Côte d’Azur in the French Riviera has always and unequivocally been Saint-Tropez. Somehow, no other town along the coast can combine nonchalant chic and subtle glamour quite the way it can. Despite being surrounded by other megawatt names like Cannes, Antibes, Juan-les-Pins and Monaco, Saint-Tropez continues to hold on to its crown.

Long before Brigitte Bardot transformed the sleepy fishing village by filming the iconic 1956 movie And God Created Woman on Pampelonne beach, Saint-Tropez had been a magnet for the cultured, sensual and creative. It was around the end of the 19th century that artists began arriving here in full force but it is, of course, Paul Signac who remains the most intertwined with local lore and history. It was through his invitation and generous hosting of fellow artist friends that others, such as Henri Matisse, Albert Marquet and Henri Manguin, came to know of — and fall in love with —Saint-Tropez. Pierre Bonnard and Georges Braque also visited and found great inspiration in the surrounding landscapes and glorious, golden light that seemed to make the entirety of the region glimmer.

From the 1900s, the jet set got wind of this charming, paradoxical destination where, to put it in a nutshell, people who are like nobody else live happily like everyone else… give or take a superyacht and sprawling villa or two. And it was for this privileged coterie that Le Beauvallon was first built in 1914. Perched on a little hillock on a 4ha estate in the village of Grimaud and overlooking the Gulf of Saint-Tropez, the historic Belle-Époque property once attracted the likes of F Scott Fitzgerald, Winston Churchill and Audrey Hepburn before shuttering in 2008.

Reopened this year by Christina Ong’s Como Hotels and Resorts, the Como Le Beauvallon maintains its modern-eclectic Riviera style but now accentuated by a dizzying array of art —so much so the experience could be likened to checking into a contemporary art museum. Over 130 artworks may be found throughout the property, from its public spaces to the extensive grounds.

One of the most iconic pieces in the Como Le Beauvallon collection, Zheng Lu’s Dripping – You and Me, naturally commands an unmissable spot, a prime location on ground level. It is a massive 650cm by 600cm by 500cm stainless steel installation inspired by Toi et Moi, Paul Géraldy’s most famous poem. The French poet and playwright had taken up residence on the fourth floor of Le Beauvallon in the 1920s to compose some of his greatest works. And it is in his words that the Beijing-based Zheng found inspiration, using beautiful lines from the poem, shown in the form of calligraphy and shaped into elegant, gravity-defying splashes of water captured in mid-air. The work is also a moving tribute to the link between past and present, and to a camaraderie between two very different creative personas from different ages and, indeed, different worlds.

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Besides art that merely pleases the eye, there are also pieces that guests can engage with. Li Jiwei’s conceptual chairs fashioned out of acrylic glass, for example, combine form with function, as does Gaetano Pesce’s cushy Up chair and stool, evoking a medieval ball and chain, but made from polyurethane; and a Shangri-La chair, made famous by the internationally acclaimed crossover artist Simon Ma, in collaboration with Italian luxury furniture brand, Creazioni.

What makes all of this exceptional is that none of the works are cordoned off by velvet rope or protected by glass display cases. Instead, guests are made to feel very much at home and enjoying the works up close and personal is a privilege for all who come to stay. Part of the fun is using the hotel’s app, which gives details on all the artworks,
and comes complete with a walking guide and locator on how and where to find them.

There is also a little pier from which to catch the resort’s boat shuttle, which will whisk you to the heart of Saint-Tropez’s old town in mere minutes, making a quick ice-cream pit stop at Barbarac, market day-shopping at the Place des Lices, or a last-minute dash to buy yet another pair of sandals from Rondini or K.Jacques entirely possible. This complimentary experience is quite the game changer that makes a stay at Le Beauvallon unmatchable, especially come the summer gridlock.

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Nearby stands the Toyo Ito Pavilion, designed by the Pritzker Prize-winning Japanese architect for the Serpentine Gallery in 2002 and which now calls Le Beauvallon home. Created together with the British-Sri Lankan artist, designer and engineer Cecil Balmond and aided by Ove Arup & Partners — renowned for working on iconic, structurally demanding projects such as the roof shells of the Sydney Opera House, the Bird’s Nest national stadium in Beijing and the Centre Pompidou — the steel and glass structure’s design is based on the algorithm of a cube and comprises numerous triangles and trapezoids formed by a system of intersecting lines that also resemble sails.

There are only 42 rooms in total so there is no fear of overcrowding, even at the height of peak season. Foodies will be delighted to know that chef Yannick Alléno, whose establishments hold a total of 18 Michelin stars, presides over the two restaurants — Beauvallon Sur Mer and the Winter Garden. There are also plans to introduce a gourmet dining experience at the library. And as an opening treat, guests staying more than three nights in the Como Suite will enjoy complimentary helicopter transfers to or from Nice Airport (cutting short a regular one and a half-hour journey by car to just 15 minutes’ flight time), with landings directly in the hotel gardens. Saint-Tropez might be the jewel of the Côte d’Azur but, to all who appreciate fine art and luxury, the Como Le Beauvallon undoubtedly wears its crown.

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