8AM
Although India is known for its tea (ie chai) drinking culture, Chennai is unabashedly fuelled by coffee — or kaapi, as locals call it. The drink is usually served in a stainless steel (or brass, at posher places) dabara and tumbler set. The best mornings start slowly, with the sweet, milky coffee poured back and forth to cool it down while creating adequate norai (foamy cap) à la the tarik process. If you are visiting the famous seventh-century Kapaleeshwarar Temple in Mylapore for morning puja, pop by the unassuming Karpagambal Mess across the road for a hot coffee accompanied by vadai, after. Established in 1950, it is as authentic as you can get and a favourite among locals.
How to spend 24 hours in Chennai, the kaapi-fuelled capital of India’s Tamil Nadu state that combines frenzy with finesse, good food and charm
When it comes to South India, there is no denying Chennai is its official gateway. The capital of Tamil Nadu state, once called Madras, is the region’s major administrative and economic hub. But business and governance aside, Chennai is also a cultural powerhouse, renowned for its classical music and dance traditions. A short trip is nowhere near enough to see all that Chennai has to offer, but if time is of the essence, here is a quick day guide to get a sense of the city.
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