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The age of the tasting menu is coming to an end

Bloomberg
Bloomberg • 5 min read
The age of the tasting menu is coming to an end
Post-Covid-19, the tyranny of the set menu is ending, says Bloomberg Opinion’s Howard Chua-Eoan. Photo: Max Griss/Unsplash
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Restaurants play host to all classes of diners: the good, the grand, the gullible, the greedy and so on. However, as a consequence of the last three decades of chef-artistes, many of the most famous dining establishments in the world treat these diverse clients as if it they were an audience with a single palate and a single motive — to worship at the chopping board of the cook-auteur.

There is only one magnificent tasting menu full of delights and curiosities (with, of course, adjustments for allergies and some degree of protein preference, though these polite accommodations rarely equalled the innovative originals).

These multi-course, hours-long extravaganzas inspired a generation of fine-dining restaurants to develop smaller-scale “tasting menus”, where the diner gets a set roster of dishes that showed off the chef’s personality and skills.

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