Some of the wine lists are extensive. At the Michelin-starred Sushi Noz on the Upper East Side, there are almost 1,000 options, ranging from funky juras from France to fancy bubbles. Beverage director Gene Sidorov explains that the restaurant’s goal was to “become not only a sushi- but a wine-lovers’ destination.” Around 90% of the list is dedicated to wine; the remainder is sake. Sidorov adds that “wines provide a more diverse and unique beverage pairing option” to accompany chef Nozomu Abe’s dishes, which are often inspired by global travels. For instance, his signature grilled langoustine in bouillabaisse was created after a trip to Spain.
Currently, many of New York City’s most sought-after reservations are at elegant, not to mention pricey, sushi counters. These omakase, or chef’s choice menus, range from minimalist, traditional Japanese style meals, where the fish is simply brushed with soy sauce, to more creative offerings with powerful garnishes such as caviar and kimchi. In Japan, the pairing of choice is generally green tea or sake.
But in New York, high-end Japanese restaurants increasingly believe that wine and spirit pairings should be an option, too. It’s important enough that new sushi spots like Jōji at One Vanderbilt and Kotaru in Midtown West have installed beverage directors to help guide customers. Many places now offer expanded by-the-glass wine options. (Spoiler alert: If you’re looking for one wine that pairs well with almost every sushi order, it’s Champagne.)
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