In anticipation of the media's questions, Fabien de Nonancourt, the general manager at Bell & Ross, decides to address a typical last question from journalists: "What's next?" He acknowledges that he frequently encounters this question and recognises its significance in exploring the path forward.
With that, he lifts the cloth covering the new BR 03 collection. Initially launched in 2005, the case size was 46mm. Over the years, in response to market demand, Bell & Ross introduced a smaller 42mm case.
Nonancourt explains that the distinctive round-in-the-square design with the four screws has become synonymous with Bell & Ross. He adds: "In 2014, we underwent the first design evolution. We retained the size but replaced PVD with ceramic and made subtle refinements like resizing the hands and aligning the screws with the centre of the dial, small yet significant changes."
Nine years after its inception, the design underwent another evolution, as Nonancourt emphasises: "Not a revolution." He adds: "There's a growing trend for smaller watches, so we aimed for the best compromise. After extensive research, we reduced the case size by just 1mm. A 1mm change is significant and immediately noticeable in the watchmaking world. So, we went from a 42mm to a 41mm case, ensuring that the watch retained its instrumental feel while being more wrist-friendly — this was our goal."
But that is not the only change: Bell & Ross has refined some subtle details that might not be immediately obvious. The square case has been subtly rounded, making it easier on the eyes than its predecessor.
The slightly decreased size of the lugs gives it a softer appearance, along with a more streamlined strap. These minor adjustments collectively make a significant difference, all while retaining the essence of the original design.
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Nonancourt adds: “We believe in preserving the spirit of our iconic watches as it is essential to maintain the integrity of an icon, and we're confident that, though smaller, this evolution of the BR 03 retains the unmistakable spirit of Bell & Ross.” He reveals that this evolution is just the beginning; there is more to come with the chronograph, the Diver Collection, and other exciting developments in the future.
Leading with expertise
Before joining Bell & Ross, Nonancourt spent 14 years at TAG Heuer as the eyewear and watch division's general manager. Nonancourt's appointment marked a significant milestone for Bell & Ross, signifying the brand's ambition to become a major player in the luxury watch industry.
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Based in Paris, his initial responsibilities included overseeing the expansion and optimisation of the Bell & Ross retail network, which encompassed 600 points of sale worldwide. In 2017, Nonancourt assumed the general manager role at Bell & Ross, encompassing his existing position as international sales director.
Nonancourt highlights his time at TAG Heuer as pivotal, offering valuable training within a larger organisation. He says: “When I transitioned to Bell & Ross 13 years ago, I found it to be a smaller company that, to some extent, lacked the breadth of experience I had acquired at TAG Heuer. I saw this as an opportunity to contribute by sharing my knowledge of different markets and distribution strategies.”
Bringing his wealth of experience to the team, Nonancourt quickly identifies Bell & Ross clients today. About 90% of the customer base is male, united by a desire for distinctiveness without excessive flashiness. These individuals use their timepieces to express their adventurous spirit, whether as explorers, pilots, or dreamers of oceanic adventures.
He adds: “This Bell and Ross wearer is drawn to our products because they offer a unique blend of style and substance. They want a watch that reflects their adventurous aspirations and distinctive tastes. They prefer a watch that aligns with their values, a timepiece that connects them with a community of like-minded individuals who appreciate the craftsmanship and design of Bell & Ross timepieces.”
Bell & Ross fans aspire to be a part of the Bell & Ross community, where they can readily identify with fellow enthusiasts, nurturing a sense of belonging. They choose Bell & Ross for its values, spirit, and identity, proudly wearing it to express their individuality and shared passions.
An evolution of design
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In the watchmaking design universe, every millimetre holds significance. Adjusting the size of a case is a matter of great importance, as designers typically prefer to begin anew rather than tamper with a celebrated model.
Bruno Belamich, co-founder and creative director of Bell & Ross, is known for his commitment to perfection. He says: "With the new BR 03, we've adjusted the collection proportions while honouring its fundamental principles. Our objective was to safeguard the identity, propelling the BR03 to its remarkable success while adapting it to contemporary sensibilities and preserving its captivating charm."
The timepieces exude elegance and power while transitioning from 42mm to 41mm. Further enhancing this transformation, the lugs have been reduced from 4.5mm to 4mm, contributing to a refreshed aesthetic outlook.
The evolution of the BR 03 encompasses a slimmer rubber strap and incorporates a new automatic movement known as the BR-CAL.302, which offers a power reserve of 54 hours. This means the watch can remain unused and accurately display the time after two days.
The collection offers three models in Bell & Ross' signature black case design: Black Matte, Phantom, and Heritage, all exuding a distinctly retro aesthetic. Additionally, there are three versions in polished steel: Black Steel, Blue Steel, and Golden Heritage, featuring black, blue, and brown dials, respectively.
Of particular note is the latter, which introduces a new hue reminiscent of a fashionable vintage spirit, aligning perfectly with the Heritage concept at its core.
