MB&F
Since its debut in 2019, the Legacy Machine FlyingT (LM FlyingT) has undergone several transformations, starting with three editions in white gold adorned with diamonds. Following these were two limited editions in 18K red gold and platinum, which omitted the diamonds but showcased guilloché dial plates. Starting 2020, the FlyingT collection introduced a special gemstone dial each year, featuring editions in Lapis Lazuli, Malachite, Tiger Eye and “Cœur de Rubis” (anyolite). Joining the series in 2024 is the LM FlyingT Onyx edition, highlighting the deep-black gemstone encased in an 18k yellow gold case.
Inspiration for the LM FlyingT stemmed from the blend of seemingly contradictory qualities embodied by the most influential feminine figures in Büsser’s life. To elevate the refinement of the feminine-inspired LM FlyingT, the Legacy Machine case underwent a complete redesign. The case height and diameter were reduced to draw attention to the highly convex sapphire crystal dome. The lugs have slimmer proportions, accentuated curves and deep bevels, resulting in a more graceful profile. Throughout the LM FlyingT, sharp lines were softened, exemplified by the undulating shape of the hour and minute hands, which mirror the rays of the sun-shaped automatic winding rotor.
Interwoven within the LM FlyingT are subtle nods to the aspects of femininity that resonate deeply with Büsser, such as the solar motif of the automatic winding rotor and the columnar construction of the tourbillon, symbolising concepts of nurturing and support.
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Girard-Perregaux
Originally introduced in 1975 as the “Quartz Chronometer”, the iconic “Laureato” makes a return this year with the Laureato Chronograph Ti49, marking the first appearance of Grade 5 titanium on a classic Laureato reference.
Encased within a 42mm frame, the Laureato Chronograph Ti49 upholds the distinctive design elements first seen in the inaugural model of 1975. Its octagonal bezel covers a circular base, which gracefully melds into a tonneau-shaped case. The intricately sculpted case profile interacts dynamically with light, casting reflections and shadows, thanks to its myriad facets and angles. The historic intricacy of crafting the Laureato’s bezel, case and bracelet is elevated with the introduction of Grade 5 titanium, a first for the latest-generation Chronograph.
Emphasising the titanium’s natural grey hue, the design embraces a monochromatic palette. The dial, adorned with a Clous de Paris pattern, possesses a sophisticated allure that is bound to captivate watch enthusiasts. Grey PVD-treated baton-style hour and minute hands, along with matching baton-type indexes, are adorned with white luminescent material, emitting a luminous glow in low-light conditions. Powering this timepiece is the Manufacture Calibre GP03300, which sits within the lightweight shell of the Laureato Chronograph Ti49.
See also: Hublot CEO Julien Tornare on settling into his role at the ‘young’ brand, and how he’s moving things along
URWERK
The UR-100V LightSpeed converges Time, Space, and Light into a singular entity. Martin Frei, URWERK’s artistic director and co-founder, describes it as “wearing a slice of the universe on your wrist, a miniature cosmos encapsulated in human dimensions”. The UR-100V LightSpeed boasts a 3D planetarium showcasing eight celestial bodies from our solar system — eight pivotal points in space. Frei elaborates: “Beginning with the Sun, we meticulously calculated and illustrated the time it takes for light to travel to each planet. It takes 8.2 minutes for sunlight to reach Earth, while the same ray requires an additional 35 minutes to reach Jupiter. It’s a voyage through time and space, with light as the vessel, the most enchanting of conveyances.”
Felix Baumgartner, URWERK’s master watchmaker and co-founder, reflects on the tale we have all been told since childhood: “It elucidates our position on Earth, the vastness of the cosmos, and our temporal dissonance: by the time starlight reaches us, that star may have already faded away. What we observe is a relic of the past; we perceive a time, a history that no longer exists.”
Indeed, the Sun’s rays traverse the expanse to each planet within measured intervals, underscoring the vastness and transient allure of our solar system. The light we behold today is a reverberation from yesteryears, a moment frozen in cosmic chronology. The Sun’s luminance reaches Mercury in 3.2 minutes, Venus in 6 minutes, Earth in 8.3 minutes, Mars in 12.6 minutes, Jupiter in 43.2 minutes, Saturn in 79.3 minutes, Uranus in 159.6 minutes, and Neptune in 4.1 hours.
