This writer visits various parts of North Gyeongsang province in the quest for historical and cultural assets and natural beauty
It is no secret that Singaporeans have an insatiable passion for travelling. According to a joint study by Yahoo and consumer research company Milieu Insight, more than half who travelled in the first quarter of the year plan to travel again in 2Q2023.
South Korea is among the top five travel destinations Singaporeans want to visit in 2023. Most travellers would have Seoul, Busan and Jeju in their itinerary as those places are well-marketed to the international audience. But repeat visitors or those searching for experiences beyond shopping should consider heading to the lesser-known cities.
Cities in the North Gyeongsang province (Gyeongsangbuk-do), for instance, allow visitors to be immersed in the Korean history and culture (especially from the Three Kingdoms period — Silla, Baekje and Goguryeo — between the first century BCE to seventh century CE), and the picturesque outdoors. After all, the area houses several world cultural heritage sites and intangible cultural heritage recognised by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization. Let’s take a look at some of those cities and what they have to offer.
Gyeongju: The wall-less museum
Known as “the museum without walls”, Gyeongju is home to many cultural properties and archaeological sites.
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One is the Donggung Palace, the secondary palace of the Silla kingdom’s crown prince. Here, you can wander through the intricately decorated pavilions that were meticulously restored and lush gardens overlooking the serene Wolji Pond. The man-made pond features three small islands and is used to entertain important guests and hold banquets for the king and his subjects. You can also visit the nearby Gyeongju National Museum to learn about the extravagant daily lives of the royal family and aristocrats of that time through the thousands of cultural artefacts recovered during the restoration of the palace and pond.
Another notable site is the Bulgaksa Temple, built during the Silla dynasty to wish for peace and prosperity. The temple is made up of three areas — Birojeon (the Vairocana Buddha Hall), Daeungjeon (the Hall of Great Enlightenment) and Geungnakjeon (the Hall of Supreme Bliss) — and stone terraces to symbolise the Land of Buddha. From the stone terraces, bridges and pagodas, every structure and building in the temple complex shows off the aesthetic beauty of Buddhist art in Silla times.
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The temple now holds seven national treasures and several additional important heritages. It is no wonder that the Bulguksa Temple is included in Unesco’s World Heritage Sites list, along with the nearby Seokguram Grotto.
Peeking into the local life of yesteryear in Andong
Andong is a must-visit if you want to discover how the locals lived in the past. Often referred to as “the capital of Korea’s spirit”, Andong has preserved much of the traditional Korean culture, particularly its folk villages, cultural practices and cuisine.
You can spend hours exploring the Unesco-listed Hahoe Village, which represents historic clan villages during the Joseon times. Home to the Ryu family for six centuries, the Hahoe Village maintains aristocratic tile-roofed residences and thatched-roof servants’ houses. At the centre of the village sits a 600-year-old zelkova tree, where the residents believe the fertility and childbirth goddess Samsin resides.
While at the Hahoe Village, watch history come to life by catching performances and celebrations. The Byeolsingut Tal Nori, for instance, is a ribald mask dance drama performance combining ritual, folk opera and pantomime. With 800 years of tradition, the engaging one-hour performance shows the conflict between the common people and the privileged class of yangban (noblemen) and seonbi (classical scholars) in yesteryear through satire.
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Curious to explore the traditional Korean craft of hanji papermaking? You can look no further than the Andong Hanji Experience Centre. You will witness the intricate process of creating hanji and try your hand at making your own paper.
Hanji is a durable paper made from the inner bark of the mulberry tree and clean water. Since the mulberry tree’s fibres allow light and wind to pass through, hanji can absorb and release moisture effectively. It is also produced using the traditional papermaking method of oebal tteugi, which allows component fibres to accumulate in multiple orientations. Thanks to these two factors, hanji is highly durable and said to last 1,000 years. In 2016, an Italian research institute recognised hanji as a suitable material for conserving European documentary heritage.
Moreover, hanji is versatile, so it has been a staple of Korean culture for centuries. It can be used to make shoes, ornamental objects, lamps, and even clothing for fashion shows.
Get a taste of nature at Mungyeong
Put your tastebuds to the test with omija wine in Mungyeong. Also known as Schisandra, omija is a five-flavoured berry (sweet, salty, sour, spicy and bitter) that has long been esteemed for its medicinal uses, particularly in South Korea, Japan and China. Since it is one of Mungyeong’s specialities, the city holds an Omija Festival every autumn (usually in September).
Visit OmyNara winery to taste OmyRose Kyol, an omija sparkling wine. It takes more than three years of fermenting omija and the traditional method of producing Champagne to create OmyRose’s deep and sweet taste. Taking on the berry’s pinkish colour, OmyRose Kyol was served at numerous international dinners, including last year’s South Korea-US Summit dinner in Seoul. If you prefer trying non-sparkling omija wine, go for Omyrose Yeon.
Mungyeong offers outdoor activities if you want a breath of fresh air. Hop onto the Mungyeong Dansan Monorail to admire the vast scenery of the Baekdudaegan Mountain Range from the glass-encased cabin. The monorail runs through a 1.8km hill section on the northern side of Dansan Mountain at an average slope of 22 degrees and a maximum slope of 42 degrees. At the mountain’s peak, you can explore the photo zone area, have a picnic while enjoying the stunning views from the camping ground or indoor resting area, or even paraglide down if you are up for an exhilarating experience.
Pohang: A sea-riously breathtaking coastal city
Pohang will steal the heart of beach lovers as it offers seven pristine sandy beaches with crystal-clear blue waters.
The best way to get a bird’s eye view of a part of Pohang is to climb the Hwanho Park Space Walk. Resembling a roller-coaster, the Space Walk is a walkable art installation made of steel that is 25m high, and its total track is 333m long. Since the structure is located on the hills of Hwanho Park, you will get to soak in the panoramic views of the Pohang cityscape, Youngil Bay and Youngildae Beach as you climb the stairs of one of the two routes to the top.
Fret not if you are not a fan of heights but are keen to get a view of Pohang. As its name suggests, the Igari Anchor Observatory is a pier in the shape of an anchor to match Pohang’s status as a maritime tourism city. Marvel at the beauty of the expansive East Sea as you walk on the 102m-long wooden deck of the pier.
Apart from being a coastal city, Pohang is also home to Mount Naeyeon (Naeyeonsan), 930m above sea level. The mountain will delight hikers as it offers various paths that bring you to see deep valleys and take in 28 scenic views, allowing you to experience the pleasures of nature through your senses.
The sounds of Daegu
If you are big on music, especially classical music, you should consider stopping by Daegu. The city is near the North Gyeongsangbuk province and is recognised by Unesco as a Creative City of Music.
During the Joseon dynasty, Daegu was the centre of traditional court music. It also first introduced Western music to South Korea. Additionally, it became a hub for artists and musicians seeking to rebuild modern Korean art and culture after the Korean War. It was here that modern Korean music was born.
Today, Daegu holds various local music festivals — such as the Daegu International Jazz Festival and Youth Hip Hop Festival — and hosts international events, including the annual World Orchestra Series. It also regularly offers entertaining musical and opera performances at the Daegu Opera House, which is the first municipal opera house that opened in Korea. The opera house features a curvy glass roof designed to resemble a grand piano and a revolving stage, and sits the audience in a horseshoe-shaped arrangement.
Daegu Opera House is the first municipal opera house that opened in Korea. Photo: Nurdianah Md Nur
You can head to Suseongmot Lake once the sun sets to wind down for the day. Take a leisure stroll along the decked shoreline, stop to enjoy busking performances, or go for a short workout by riding a duck-shaped pedal boat here. You can also dine at the surrounding cafes and restaurants and be treated to the musical fountain show every night from May to October.
From Korean history to culture to nature, there is something for the different types of travellers to do in Daegu and the cities in the North Gyeongsang province. The easiest way to get to the province from Singapore is to fly to Gimhae International Airport in Busan before taking the bus or the high-speed KTX (Korea Train Express) train to your desired destination.
