Supposedly the world’s first true diver’s watch, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms resulted from a true lightbulb moment by its late CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter, inspired by one of his deep-sea adventures in Cannes. Almost running out of air during a dive, he realised the importance of having a time-measuring instrument tailored to the needs of scuba divers.
The Fifty Fathoms, named after the maximum depth to which it was safely possible to dive, was launched in 1953. The pioneer MIL-SPEC model introduced several important features: it wound itself automatically, reducing wear on the crown gaskets compared to hand-wound watches. It was resistant to magnetism, which is crucial for divers. It could stay watertight up to a depth of at least 10 bar. Plus, it had large, glow-in-the-dark hour markers on a dark dial for better visibility.
Innovations like the double watertight crown seal, a caseback sealing system to protect the O-ring, and a lockable rotating bezel were patented. These qualities made it the go-to choice for combat divers of the armed forces, including those of France, Germany, the US and Norway.
To further enhance the performance of the MIL-SPEC, Jean-Jacques Fiechter added a moisture indicator to the watch, confirming its condition after dives. This feature was especially prized by collectors and met the strict criteria of the US Navy for underwater missions.
These defining features made the Fifty Fathoms an iconic diver’s watch and continue influencing the entire watch industry. Today’s models, inspired by tradition and looking to the future, incorporate modern, reliable movements and technical innovations from Blancpain’s diving expertise.
This year, to mark its 70-year legacy, Blancpain presents the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 watch, which pays tribute to the original MIL-SPEC model used by the armed forces. This special edition 41.30mm watch honours its heritage with a matte black dial featuring vintage SuperLumiNova markers and a moisture indicator. The unidirectional rotating bezel showcases a black ceramic insert with a vintage Super-LumiNova diving scale. The two-tone NATO strap, made from reclaimed fishing nets, nods to the original design.
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Each of these elements connects the past and present, but the case material sets them apart. The original MIL-SPEC was crafted from German silver, while the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 boasts a 9K Bronze Gold case. This unique alloy, enriched with 37.5% gold, copper (50%), silver, palladium and gallium, gives it a distinctive pink hue and durability. Unlike traditional bronze, it can be worn directly against the skin without oxidising to a greenish colour, thanks to the gold content.
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Inside the 9K Bronze Gold case, the 1154.P2 movement offers a substantial 100-hour power reserve, thanks to twin barrels. A silicon balance spring ensures resistance to magnetism. The watch also features a 1,000-gauss version of the movement, thanks to exclusive alloys used in the escapement.
Unlike the original version, where the movement was hidden within a soft iron cage for magnetic resistance, the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 displays its movement through a sapphire crystal caseback that reveals vintage-inspired details and an 18K gold-engraved logo.
Limited to 555 pieces, this watch comes in a box inspired by historic camera housing, reflecting Blancpain’s commitment to ocean protection. As underwater photography evolved alongside diver’s watches, this commemorative timepiece bridges two eras, continuing the legacy of the world’s first true diver’s watch.
The Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Exhibition
When: Oct 18–31 (open to public)
Where: #B2M-K1/K2, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands (casino level)
To get to know more about the seven-decade history of the Fifty Fathoms and how it has played an essential role in the development of scuba diving and ocean conservation, head to a special 70th anniversary exhibition at Marina Bay Sands. There will be a showcase of vintage and exclusive timepieces, including the commemorative 2023 limited edition.
